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  1. #1

    Default Validity of Website Info

    As I mentioned in the "1943 Garand Question" thread, I acquired SN 2,989,601. A couple of the major components are not correct. I've been researching sources for a a replacement bolt with the correct Drawing Number / Heat Treat lots and I'm finding differences on various websites.

    I'm looking for a correct bolt, and the website in which I sourced a bolt for the SN range of my Garand states a different SN range.

    In the opinion of those here, is the Drawing # / Heat Treat lot information at USRifleCAL30M1.com more correct than what might be stated on a commercial website that sells Garand parts.

    Richard
    Last edited by RGBvr; 09-27-2014 at 08:16. Reason: Correct spelling

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Default

    "...for a replacement bolt..." Bolts are not drop in parts. Installation requires proper headspace gauges. Anyway, any bolt with a 1943 date will be "correct".
    Spelling and grammar count!

  3. #3

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    Sunray:
    Maybe in Canada they have 1943 marked M1 bolts but not in the US. I'm not sure what you are talking about...............

    OP:
    I use Scott Duff for my references- I feel he is the most accurate.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunray View Post
    "...for a replacement bolt..." Bolts are not drop in parts. Installation requires proper headspace gauges. Anyway, any bolt with a 1943 date will be "correct".
    For me it's a drop in part. I have the proper Go, No-Go, and Field Gauges to check the head space.

    Thanks for the response.

    Richard
    Last edited by RGBvr; 09-27-2014 at 01:51.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BigMo View Post
    Sunray:
    Maybe in Canada they have 1943 marked M1 bolts but not in the US. I'm not sure what you are talking about...............

    OP:
    I use Scott Duff for my references- I feel he is the most accurate.
    I suppose I could buy Scott's book to guarantee I acquire the correct Drawing # / Heat Treat lot for an M1 built in early July 1944. The downside is the cost of the book just to identify the bolt I need.

    Richard

  6. Default

    Heat lots and Drawing #'s for bolts is probably the least well defined aspect of what makes a "correct" M1 for a specific time period. There is a lot of latitude, so don't worry about being "precise".

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fogerty View Post
    Heat lots and Drawing #'s for bolts is probably the least well defined aspect of what makes a "correct" M1 for a specific time period. There is a lot of latitude, so don't worry about being "precise".
    I had noticed the wide variability of SN range to Drawing # / Heat lots for bolts. Thanks for the feedback.

    Richard
    Last edited by RGBvr; 09-28-2014 at 06:33.

  8. #8

    Default

    Ill throw this site into the mix to probably add to your confusion. http://myplace.frontier.com/~aleccorapinski/id12.html
    I cannot personally say that it is more or less accurate than other references on the heat lot subject.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gulliver62 View Post
    Ill throw this site into the mix to probably add to your confusion. http://myplace.frontier.com/~aleccorapinski/id12.html
    I cannot personally say that it is more or less accurate than other references on the heat lot subject.
    Thanks for posting the link . The data presented offers an opportunity to cross match the info and narrow the possibilities.

  10. #10

    Default

    There are threads on the CMP board that would help you. Use the search function, try "SA ww2 bolts." Expert Garand collectors with far more experience than mine, some are members here, have told me that any SA D28287-12 bolt made in 1943 up to mid '44 per heat lot would be considered correct for your rifle.

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