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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Baird, Texas
    Posts
    9,753

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    I was once told by a guy who thought he was a physicist/engineer to fill the scabbard with water and put it in the freezer allowing expansion to pop the dent out............this does not work and is a terrible idea......do not do this.

    How about thin slips of metal and hammer several wedges of metal in until it is popped out? pretty much what you were talking about, now that I look at the OP again.
    I own firearms not to fight against my government, but to ensure I will not have to.

  2. Default

    I really latched on to this thread.........thought sure someone of a clever persuasion would provide me with a solution to this problem. I have thought long and hard on it for several years, myself.

    I would really like to see documentation on the process used to make these scabbards but I don't live near Springfield or Rock Island and have no contacts at either museum. I think if we could see the process and maybe some of the fixtures they used we might figure a way to do this reliably?

    My approach, though I have never actually done it, would be to remove the throat and use a hardwood or similar hardness material in the shape of the inside of the scabbard to force the dent out. Before forcing the shaped dolly down the scabbard I would encase the scabbard in a material like plaster or cement to keep things from getting out of hand, like the brazed seam previously mentioned. Maybe a foundry that uses the lost wax casting method would have a material suitable to encase the exterior of the scabbard and keep it stable during the forcing?

    Reattaching the throat and spring might also be a little troublesome but since the scabbard is not actually going to be used; modern bounding products could serve the purpose, depending on your ability to deviate from “original”.
    Just out of curiosity, is this the first type Krag scabbard with no limiting pin in the pivot?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Durand. MI.
    Posts
    6,778

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    Ever wonder why so many scabbards are dented? Many, probably most were dented cause the bayo became lose in the scabbard. Sort of a field fix. These dents are quite similar in size and shape, like the dull bayo blade was layed on it and hit with a hammer. I doubt any of these dents were due to 'bomping' them or 'dropping' them, just too much force needed.
    I doubt any auto tools will work well. Dents in cars are usually in a large area (more 'spring' to the metal) and the metal is much lighter/thinner then a scabbard! Also, as mentioned, the metal is stretched and it will not un-stretch.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by RLDARMSTR View Post
    Just out of curiosity, is this the first type Krag scabbard with no limiting pin in the pivot?
    Yes, and with the "keystone" aperture as well - that is why I've sought expert advice. I'll suffer the dent before I risk really hurting it.

    Something that may not have been clear, from the tone of some of the replies. This is a cosmetic thing, affecting display only, the blade goes (all the way) in, it's just really tight.
    Last edited by Dick Hosmer; 01-21-2013 at 02:21.

  5. #15

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    If you put a dent in your bayonet scabbard, the sergeant major would be unhappy, and you DO NOT want to make him unhappy

    "I'll shove my pace stick up your nose, open it out , crawl inside, and kick your bloody brains out!"
    Last edited by John Sukey; 01-21-2013 at 08:32.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    My wife's house in Nebraska
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    4,976

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    Instead of using dry ice, you can use another item. Get an easily available can of that compressed air that is used to blow out computer keyboards with. If you turn the can upside down, then press the nozzle, the freon or whatever it is will blow out as a freezing cold spray. I mean it will freeze human skin allmost like liquid nitrogen to the point of frostbite if you do it long enough...like over two seconds. a series of quick squirts can be used immediately on burns to remove the heat and if not done too long, will not harm the skin. Anyway, it's damned cold and should do just fine. Oh, keep it away from a candle flame or a welding torch or whatever. The gas and melting frost is combustable. But, so is fix a flat. Oh, yea, this method is also good for freezing chewing gum to the point where you can cleanly break it out of hair or clothing.
    Last edited by Fred; 01-26-2013 at 11:21.

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