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Thread: My 03a4 replica

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    NORTH CAROLINA
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    582

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    i agree, it should have!! not hitting anything hand guard not even close
    no, not at top, i have from top to bottom 90 clicks available, with 21 for 100 yard zero, might be close for 200, and with normal come up i should be okay might have to add maybe 4 moa for 200 then another 3-5 for 300 and to normal come up for 600
    my M1a starts at 7 moa for 200, 10 for 300 and 20 for 600, those are pretty close to X ring each time

    key word is should be

    will see tomorrow, i plan on once again obtain wind zero (taking scope on and off changes wind zero, i know in the movies they put scope on and off, and hit something a mile away, but i sure dont)

    but i will run the thing up from 100 zero and record it on the paper backing, i have 48" target stand and we will just hve to see what is what

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    NORTH CAROLINA
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    Shot today,
    a 3 round group at 100 yards base line, established 100yd zero
    up 3 clicks on scope, 3 round centered up 3"
    up 3 clicks on scope, 3 round centered another 3" 6" from base lind mark
    up 3 clicks on scope, 3 round centered another 3" 9" from base line mark
    up 3 clicks on scope, 3 round centered another 3" 12" from base line mark
    up 3 clixka on scope, 3 round centered another 3" 15" from base line mark
    up 5 clicks on scope, 3 round centered another 5" 20" from base line mark

    now i shot over fifty rounds today and at 100 yards if i did my part the gun did its part i put a 5"X5" wide cross and then drew a line thru it and counted up to 35" 2" increments and the rifle would move up 3" for 3 clicks so its seems as if it is one minute for sure, some of you have said it was and you are correct (not that there was a doubt, but i have to see it sometimes, i know anal, but wth)

    lot more elevation available on scope might be 1000 yards in there??

    somehow, and i have no idea, i feel i screwed up on the first time i shot rilfe WITH THE SHIMS IN
    consequently i am going back to zero, will count down to 21 minutes and then count down again to mechanical zero to obtain data with the shims in

    kind of interesting, still want to work on the base line 100 yard zero

    and now pulling shims to see what happens
    Last edited by pelago; 09-15-2010 at 12:00.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Yuma , Arizona
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    1,492

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    I , too , have removed and added shims to an A4 , two different A4s as a matter of fact. Adding and removing those shims has the exact opposite effect you would think they would. I still cannot wrap my head around why this is so , it just is .
    HTH , Chris

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    NORTH CAROLINA
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    i am sure glad you said that!!!
    it was driving me nuts
    regards

    but we shall see what the next go around is, shims out!!, can not do it this weekend am competing at Camp Butner with the NSSC

  5. #35

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    Keep in mind all the real world A4's that were equipped with shim's were Weaver 330C's or M73B1's. The M73B1 (and 330C of course) was manufactured with 1/4" clicks. Had the Lyman Alaskans been delivered and actually used with the A4 perhaps a different procedure would have been required to initially zero the scope???.

    Regards,

    Jim

  6. #36
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    Sep 2009
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    Yuma , Arizona
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    Prob'ly not. The problem of tolerance stacking would still be there. Most guns built then had a way to adjust the zero. Carbines had thier front sit ground at the factory range , the Garand had adjustable rear sight elevation zeros , the 1903/A3s had replacable front sight blades , all done because each rifle was a law unto itself. The A4 was made to take one shim for a reason. If a little one way , they could remove the shim , a little the other , they could add one.
    Here is the military way to do the M73B1:

    Turn the windage in the direction of the arrow till it bottoms out. Come back to the zero point , then back 4 complete revolutions. That is now centered.
    Turn the elevation in the direction of the arrow till it bottoms out. Come back to zero , then give it two more revolutions. This should be close to the 100 yard zero. Adjust the big screws for windage and add/subtract shims to sight in at 100 yds. You must confirm by actual firing.Once sighted in by this , your good for out to a thousand yards ( yah-right) with M2 ball or equal ( 188 clicks up , three revolutions plus 8 clicks ).
    The 330 has plenty of adjustment , but due to the crosshairs moving in your field of view , this is how the army set it up to get the most out of it. They recommended sighting it in for a single range ( 200 - 250- 300 yds) depending on your conditions , then just using Kentucky elevation , due to the ease of losing click ( or revolution ) count. Sill , if it was set up this way , you could turn down to bottom and start over and be very close.

    HTH , Chris

  7. #37
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    Feb 2010
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    NORTH CAROLINA
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    seem to be on the same wave length, i mechanically zeroed the windage adj on scope, then shot and adjusted mech zero on the redfield base, at 50 yards three rounds made a penny size hole and split the vertical line on a piece of target paper i drew and put up true vertical.....

    also started a good data book on a small bound journal bought at staples, actually have one of these for all my target rifles, can only remember when i write it down, and i keep track of rounds fired and also did a throat erossion measurment since it is a new barrel have a good starting point

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, Tennessee
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    227

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    I'm hoping to take mine two 1903A4geries out this fall and shoot some medium range matches (600 yards) with them at Oak Ridge, looking foreward to seeing how they group.

    Gary

  9. #39

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    You've got a good barrel; that's what makes the rest of the exercise worth it.

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