Can we make this thread a sticky here or in the ammo section? The above posts sum it up and the topic repeats itself often.
Can we make this thread a sticky here or in the ammo section? The above posts sum it up and the topic repeats itself often.
Phillip McGregor (OFC)
"I am neither a fire arms nor a ballistics expert, but I was a combat infantry officer in the Great War, and I absolutely know that the bullet from an infantry rifle has to be able to shoot through things." General Douglas MacArthur
Just for grins, I got my funnel from Canada. Actualy I bought a crate of them, but NOBODY was interested at the time. Wound up having a dealer sell most of them for me.
John, I think I must have gotten my funnel from the same dealer. I take it to the range with me, along with a quart-size Thermos bottle full of hot water. After shooting, I flush out the bore and head on home. When I get there, a quick swab of Hoppe's, then a couple of dry patches, and all done. Works like a charm.
Tickets, Please!
As mentioned by others, water is the best for dissolving the salts left from firing corrosive primed ammo. Windex is just an expensive water, as it is 90% water. If you can, hot water is even better.
And, don't forget to clean the bolt face.
Blue Wonder gun cleaner gel. It is water based and you can use it like normal bore cleaner. I no longer mess with
hot water and funnels. Use with an old toothbrush on bolt face and gas pistons.
Just my 2 cents worth.
C-Stoff + T-Stoff = Blastoff!
After firing corrosive primers while in the Military we took the weopon into the Shower with Us ( minus the wood) and scrubbed the intire thing with hot water, after it dried we then cleaned as normal.
Good Shooting
Lindy
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned Ballistol. It is all I use now for non-corrosive, corrosive, and blackpowder ammunition cleanup.. With non-corrosive ammunition, it cleans the smokeless residue as well as Hoppes. It isn't as aggressive or fast with the copper fouling as Hoppes, but it will do just as well given a little more time. It is a water soluble, so it mixes readily with water, making a solution known as "moose milk". I've used it as strong as 50/50, but many people use as little as 1 part Ballistol to 7 parts water. "Moose milk" readily dissolves the salts from chloride primers as well as black powder fouling.
After scrubbing the bore with "moose milk", I usually follow up with straight Ballistol to both attack copper fouling and to soak up any remaining moisture. That moisture soon evaporates, leaving a corrosion resistant film of oil behind. It has a strong anise odor, which some find objectionable. But I actually like the smell. It is also non-toxic and washes off the hands easily.
Not a lot of corrosive US ammo left any more. I still have an un-opened WW11 GI cleaner qt. purchased at a gun shop in the '50's. Used that much and more back in those days. Nothing else, never a rusted bore. I love the smell!
When I bought my M39-2 in the 70's, about a month later found a shop that had
a 100 count box of 9mm FMJ, bought it and saw it was GECO about mid-50's headstamp.
Called the shop and confirm that they thought it was corrosive and yes the best way to clean was
hot soapy water and followed up with regular Hoppe's cleaner and oiled.
Still taking it out to the range look great as the day I bought. Only think I kick myself about is not buying the Ithaca 1911 the dealer was selliing for $150.