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    I wonder sometimes if in the vernacular of old Ordnance publications the term "raw linseed oil" is used to mean "unmixed with any other compounds linseed oil"? If you have ever messed with raw linseed oil you know that the stuff takes forever to dry, and sometimes it doesn't dry at all. I simply can't imagine the Armory (or anyone else) having used the raw stuff when there was a need to get on with the job. Rather I would think it was what we call today boiled linseed oil (not really boiled but rather with driers added to facilitate drying).

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    You guys can argue all you want, what's what.... By far the prettiest stock I've ever see was done by forum member Vulch he used Log Wood stain and then BLO. What's the saying BLO once a day for a week, then once a week for a month, once a month for a year and finally once a year for as long as you own it. All he did after each BLO rub down was let it sit in the sun and finish dry/cure. I do believe he lives in Australia where there is a overabundance of sun, regardless for a Boyds stock you would never have guessed it wasn't original that someone had hidden away.

  3. #43

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    Phil I remember that. It was a great looking stock. He spent some time on it sanding and fitting if I remember correctly. But the results as you say looked like a nos stock. I'm not sure but wasn't he also rubbing in Tom's mix later also.
    Last edited by louis; 04-15-2016 at 03:40.

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by louis View Post
    Phil I remember that. It was a great looking stock. He spent some time on it sanding and fitting if I remember correctly. But the results as you say looked like a nos stock. I'm not sure but wasn't he also rubbing in Tom's mix later also.

    Its been so long ago, my understanding was that he did what he did too the stock and that took about a years worth of rub downs before he was 100% happy with its outcome. When all was said done the crowning touch too finish it off COULD have been a coat of Gunny paste or Tom's mix, but I don't remember. It's been so long ago and what pictures he posted of his stock have dropped off the board, I even checked over at mil-surp's forum and they didn't pop up for me over there either because I was thinking of picking up a Minnelli "C" stock and doing the same treatment he did.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,529

    Default

    If Vulch had a successful formula and process for making actual logwood stain, I sure wish that information was still available.
    "They've took the fun out of running the race. You never see a campfire anywhere. There's never any time for visiting." - Joe Redington Sr., 1997

  6. #46

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    Joe I gave it to you. Read the formula leave out the acid and camwood.
    Last edited by louis; 04-15-2016 at 05:30.

  7. #47

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    Besides that you can buy it now online without making it

  8. #48

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    Phil. I remember being toms because I have been using toms and was very happy with it. I need a C stock also. Looking for info on a good new one since originals are way too much for my pocket anyway. How is the Minelli?

  9. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by louis View Post
    Phil. I remember being toms because I have been using toms and was very happy with it. I need a C stock also. Looking for info on a good new one since originals are way too much for my pocket anyway. How is the Minelli?
    I don't remember if it was Tom's or Gunny, doesn't matter. On too the Minelli, I have only seen a few, off the top of my head maybe 7 total, 3 of those were on rifles being used at the range. There CNC inletted and pre-war shaped there owners stated much less fuss fitting if any. All have been very nice clean straight grain wood with a darker stain, worlds better than anything that has come out of Boyds. Would I spend the money for one, YES. However when they have turned up and I had money too spend I had other projects that needed my attention first, looking back I should have put one of my other projects on hold for a little longer and snapped one up.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Jackson, Mississippi
    Posts
    5,938
    Blog Entries
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    I recall Marine A5 Sniper made some log wood stain.

    I cheat and use the Chestnut ridge product and then use linseed oil from the artist paint store, they use it to thin paint and it works much better than the thick, waxy stuff from the hardware store and it doesn't need to be cut with turpentine. I can't determine if it's boiled or raw. If someone wants raw, it is under another name at the grocery store, flax seed oil.

    I mixed my Weber linseed oil and the chestnut ridge stain for my maintenance.

    Linseed Oil — Weber Linseed Oil is widely used in diluting oil or alkyd colors. It is also used in preparing painting mediums, and is even good for cleaning brushes. This fine quality, purified and refined linseed oil is pressed from flaxseed. It contains no free mineral acids.
    01500-1004-3ww-l.jpg

    Chuck in Denver likes the Italian stocks for fitment and despises the CMP stocks for the same. I have zero confidence in the CMP stocks because the rear tang hole is drilled crooked on mine. I don't think much of the cheesy brass bushing either. The regular bushing willm slip fit inside the brass, but since the hole is on the wrong angle, the screw won't fit. Gluing in a dowel is simple, but how to drill it at the correct angle without constructing an elaborate jig escapes me.
    Last edited by PhillipM; 04-16-2016 at 06:18.
    Phillip McGregor (OFC)
    "I am neither a fire arms nor a ballistics expert, but I was a combat infantry officer in the Great War, and I absolutely know that the bullet from an infantry rifle has to be able to shoot through things." General Douglas MacArthur

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