You might find the PRVI brass a bit undersized, you might get a bulge on one side. I've not tried the PRVI myself, but I have worked with the woefully undersized and way too expensive Norma brass. First time I shot the Norma brass a more experienced shooter looked at the brass, shook his head and said he wouldn't shoot it anymore. Despite neck sizing only, the signs of incipient casehead failure appeared on the second loading. For a better fit, and a semi-rim of the proper thickness, I make Jap brass from Krag or .303 brass. 4350 will be about as slow as you want to go with the bullet weights you plan on using, though any of the selection you have will make the bullet come out the end of the barrel. They can be surprisingly accurate despite the fact that many have oversized groove diameters, some as big as .271". Bore diameter though is generally around .255. Recover a few bullets if you can and you'll see wide rifling marks, but no contact down in the grooves of the rifling. I don't know how true it is, but I've read that the main reason behind the Japanese going with the metford rifling was that at the time they were wanting to go to smokeless powders, their steels weren't up to the pressure potential. That would have been the earlier type 30. Allowing some gas to blow past the bullet would lower the pressure. Makes for a big buildup of carbon fouling I've found. I once slugged one without cleaning it first, thought I had a .264" groove diameter, woo hoo! After getting all the carbon fouling out, it was .270"! 6.5 bullet molds that cast that big aren't easy to come by, but NOE makes a couple.
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