.303 British bullets

[lyman]

depends,

neck sizing for one rifle, or FL for a couple?

[Phloating Phlasher]

I'm up to 6 & still going.
I do "partial full length resize" and I have good headspace.
I use nothing but "PPU" or "HXP" brass. Most of the RemChester is minimum or less dimensioned & doesn't last.

[Merc]

I only have one No 4. It headspaces ok to military specs but just barely. I started out resizing the necks only and went FL because the cases I was using became harder to chamber and eject after they’ve been reloaded. I’m going to try to go back to neck sizing only because I have a lot of HXP Greek cases that I’ll be using exclusively until they have been reloaded a few times. I was favoring PPU brass because of the weight, but I discovered that the HXP brass is even heavier (hence going back to neck sizing).

Another question - Is crimping reloads necessary? I use the minimum amount of IMR 4064. Is it possible that crimping creates dangerous pressure at minimum powder loads? The only factory loaded ammo I have is HXP ammo and it’s definitely crimped.

[Phloating Phlasher]

I'm not sure what you mean by "It headspaces ok to military specs but just barely." its a Pass/Fail system there's no "close"?
If its under 0.074" you're GTG, if not it fails gauge & you need to remedy the situation.

The problem, as you've discovered with neck sizing is the need to periodically full length resize.
Try partial full length resizing as it solves that problem without creating undue brass wear.
I have a .PDF explaining in detail how to with many illustrations but the forum wont let me upload. If you want tp PM me your e-mail I'll send it there for you.

I don't crimp. Instead I did a one time minute reduction in dia & polish on the expander ball.
Pull the stem, chuck it in a power drill & spin the heck out of it using a green ScotchBrite pad.

[Merc]

The bolt won’t fully close on a .074 headspace gauge.

I asked the crimping question here several years ago and nearly all responders said they don’t crimp the necks of reloaded cases. The danger is a blown primer.

I’m considering using new 303 brass with each load and skip resizing the old 303 brass altogether. My No. 4 Mk 1* is definitely hard on brass cases. Graf sells new PPU 303 brass for $.78 each which avoids excessively working the old brass and makes all the time consuming prep work unnecessary.

The only other caliber I shoot is 30-06 in three rifles (M1917 Winchester, M1903 Springfield and 03A3 Remington). I have FL sized the brass cases for these rifles multiple times and they seem handle them well. The rifles are in like-new condition which probably helps the cases survive so many reloads.

[lyman]

I do not reload a lot of 303., but what I do shoot, I segregate as in keep, the brass for the rifles,

re crimping, a lot of folks crimp everything,

I shoot Garand Comps, and 1903 comps for years, and still shoot AR's in competition, and reload for all, and do not crimp a thing,


WLR or WSR primers, mostly military cases (deburred primers) and Sierra Match Kings

no issues, no drama,

[Phloating Phlasher]

The bolt won?t fully close on a .074 headspace gauge

It isn't supposed to!

That is passing gauge!

Directions for use:
Make sure the firearm to be checked is UNLOADED.
Open and close the bolt on an empty chamber several times, making note of the amount of pressure needed to close the bolt. Knowing how the bolt feels on closing is important for proper usage of the gauge.
Wipe the gauge with a clean dry cloth to remove the protective oil residue. These gauges are made from hardened and ground 4140 steel for precision and durability, but they WILL rust if not kept oiled when not in use. A drop of any light oil such as 3 in 1 or gun oil will be sufficient. Re-oil the gauge before storing it in its bag.
Open the bolt far enough to allow you to insert the gauge on the bolt face, aligning the notch in the gauge with the extractor. The dimxples in the gauge are for identification only and can face the chamber OR the bolt face.
GENTLY slide the bolt forward and with light finger pressure close the bolt. If you feel resistance DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT CLOSED. This can damage both the gauge and the firearm being tested.
The gauges are slightly magnetic and may stick to the chamber face when opening the bolt.

For the GO gauge the bolt should FULLY CLOSE with minimal pressure to pass.

For the NO-GO or FIELD the bolt SHOULD NOT fully close with minimal pressure to pass.

A qualified gunsmith must inspect any firearm failing both the NO-GO and FIELD before attempting to fire it. Failure to do so may result in personal injury or even death!

Don't skip, reloading! There's nothing to partial full length & you probably have all the equipment needed.
Its a one time & done fix.

Basically you just back off the sizing die one & a half turns from contacting the shell-holder. Smoke he neck & shoulder ONCE, now resize & look at the smoke removed. Guess how far you need to tighten to get a fit & tighten half of that. Resize again & repeat in smaller & smaller steps till you just kiss the shoulder to leave a ring of shiny brass. check with a second smudged case. If you're happy set the die lock ring.

The die/press is now custom fitted to YOUR chamber, carry on reloading as before.

DSCF9860 smudged.jpg

[Merc]

My No. 4 bolt does not close completely on a .303 headspace .074 field gauge. The chambers were built overly spacious so that they would not jam when fouled with dirt. The Brits never once considered the prospect of reloading the brass cases which can exhibit a tendency to head separation and other problems from being overworked.

[androck14]

I have some HXP 78 cases that I've reloaded five times and they're still good. I neck size them. I previously had some S&B brass that failed on the first reload

[Phloating Phlasher]

Just reload them properly with quality brass & you'll be amazed.
As for generous chambers that has little to with "headspace", which is limited to the rim thickness.
Anything further forward than 0.074" has nothing to do with it.