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Thread: Rusty Rem-Rand

  1. #1
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    Default Rusty Rem-Rand

    I recently acquired this pistol with a serial range of early 1945. On the left side front it is heavily rusted and speckled rust down that side. Upon taking it apart there is rust under both plastic grip panels. Pistol is all original with a need of being refinished. The slide is in good shape as is the barrel and all internals.
    Upon doing research I plan on using the LaRue products to fill in any pits and finish in Parkerizing to try and match the correct factory finish. Slide is tight to frame and no rust on the rails so that is good. The pistol was given to me so I have nothing in it with the exception of trying to make it back into a shooter.
    Sam

  2. #2
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    Sam, if you have a battery charger try electrolysis. I have used this on several old tools and it works really good. It removes rust in tight places you can’t get by hand. Use this process outside on your deck, it releases Hydrogen and you need to let it go to the atmosphere..

    j cook in SC
    “Then said he unto them, But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip: and he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one.” (Luke 22:36)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOHN COOK View Post
    Sam, if you have a battery charger try electrolysis. I have used this on several old tools and it works really good. It removes rust in tight places you can’t get by hand. Use this process outside on your deck, it releases Hydrogen and you need to let it go to the atmosphere..

    j cook in SC
    I watched several do this on YouTube and I am going to give this a try. Going to Menards tomorrow to pick up the needed items to do this. You are right about this being a possible explosive situation as Hydrogen and Oxygen are given off in this process. After this is done I have 0000 steel wool to buff the affected areas. On Monday I will order the needed supplies from my smithing supplies Brownells.
    Sam

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    scrub it good, with a good degreaser/cleaner, stiff brush etc,
    not something that will take off finish just get the crud and rust off (oily bit of 000 Steel Wool works well, but keep it wet and go easy)


    eta, or take the grips off and soak it in a tub of Kero for a few days, then clean,

    then wipe it dry and post pics,

    I would say that what is left of the original finish is better than a redo,

    but it is your pistol,
    Last edited by lyman; 09-25-2020 at 04:55.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyman View Post
    scrub it good, with a good degreaser/cleaner, stiff brush etc,
    not something that will take off finish just get the crud and rust off (oily bit of 000 Steel Wool works well, but keep it wet and go easy)


    eta, or take the grips off and soak it in a tub of Kero for a few days, then clean,

    then wipe it dry and post pics,

    I would say that what is left of the original finish is better than a redo,

    but it is your pistol,
    Never thought of this, have it in penetrating oil and will scrub it with 0000 steel wool today and see what is there. It might not be as bad as it looks is my hope. Refinishing is a last resort.
    Sam

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by S.A. Boggs View Post
    Never thought of this, have it in penetrating oil and will scrub it with 0000 steel wool today and see what is there. It might not be as bad as it looks is my hope. Refinishing is a last resort.
    Sam

    as it should be ,


  7. #7
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    "...will scrub it with 0000 steel wool..." It's not a 'scrubbing' job. It's a gently rub with 0000 steel wool and oil. Usually on blued steel.
    A light touch with a fine brass wire wheel in a bench grinder works well and is a lot faster. Operative words being 'light touch'. Eye protection is mandatory.
    The real issue is the thing pitted or not? There's no fixing pitting.
    Spelling and grammar count!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunray View Post
    "...will scrub it with 0000 steel wool..." It's not a 'scrubbing' job. It's a gently rub with 0000 steel wool and oil. Usually on blued steel.
    A light touch with a fine brass wire wheel in a bench grinder works well and is a lot faster. Operative words being 'light touch'. Eye protection is mandatory.
    The real issue is the thing pitted or not? There's no fixing pitting.
    I talked with the authority on firearms [Brownells] and I am going to redo the finish. The receiver is too badly discolored so a refinish is in order. I have ordered the rust stripper that was recommended. I am going to take with LaRue tomorrow on their parkerize finish. LaRue has a process to fill pits that looks promising as well. The lettering is clear and was only lightly rusted so it cleared up well. I took pictures but the light just doesn't work so I am going to try something elst to shoot pictures.
    If not LaRue then I will do the park from Brownells.
    Sam

  9. #9

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    The phosphate "Parkerized" finish is a built up finish and any type of wire wheel will remove the finish. Trying to remove the rust even with 4/0 steel wool will remove the phosphate finish before it removes the rust. The military would have refinished it, as most of their 1911/1911A1 pistols had been.

  10. #10

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    Being that its a Remington it will soon be in high demand by collectors. Remington was taken apart by the bankruptcy court and all of the parts offered for sale to the highest bidder. Ruger got Marlin and a group got the ammo portion. The rifle end is still up for grabs but most of the rest has been sold off. But soon anything Remington will like Winchester before it take on a new set of values. Very sad to see another great firearm maker gone.

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