I'm thinning out my carbines...

[Brad in Idaho]

OK then,


as someone who is in the business, I was just trying to help you prepare for the questions and comments you may get when you put these online or on your table etc,

beg you pardon IF THAT offended,


FWIW,
I recently sold a S,G, mostly correct (and may have been a CMP , not sure, no paperwork, but others in the collect were) for $1600, and a NPM mixmaster for $1500


The RockOla may bring the same,

the rest, slightly less,


however, keep in mind I am on the EAST coast,, prices often vary by region

No offense. I don't mean to be short but I also don't want to sell to someone who just wants to scavenge parts. If that means they go for less, I'm OK with that. Anyone who questions what parts are made by what manufacturer will be told it is a grab bag. You buy what the CMP sent me originally. I have done nothing with these rifles other than thoroughly clean, inspect and test fire them. No parts swapping was done.

[Brad in Idaho]

I am in the process of photographing each of these rifles. Pics are exterior with rifles assembled. When I'm done, I'll post them here. At least they will be an indicator of condition.

Note to GunSmoke, it is extremely unlikely that I will realize maximum prices for my rifles in my region, but selling locally has the advantages of:

1) Transfers between private parties in Idaho are very simple. Washington residents must do a transfer through a dealer ($20 at Idaho dealers) and fill out a 4473 which hasn't been a problem with some other rifles I have sold.

2) I pay no sales commission.

3) I don't have to package and ship a firearm.

I'm going to try advertising locally first, if that doesn't work I will look into other means.

[twh]

The problem is that even with shooter carbines the parts on the rifle effect the value. The fact of who you bought them from might factor in slightly but not enough to justify any randomly assigned value. At a minimum you need to list the barrel receiver combo or your going to have a hard time setting or justifying a price. Kind of like selling a classic car but refusing to open the hood and tell buyers what kind of engine it has.

[Brad in Idaho]

The problem is that even with shooter carbines the parts on the rifle effect the value. The fact of who you bought them from might factor in slightly but not enough to justify any randomly assigned value. At a minimum you need to list the barrel receiver combo or your going to have a hard time setting or justifying a price. Kind of like selling a classic car but refusing to open the hood and tell buyers what kind of engine it has.

Rock-Ola (Oct-Dec 1943) has a Rock-Ola barrel dated 5-43 P under band/bayo lug

Quality Hardware (July-Sept 1943) Underwood barrel dated 12-43 flaming bomb and a P

Saginaw (sometime between May 1943 and April 1944) Underwood barrel 1-44 flaming bomb and a P

National Postal Meter (Oct-Dec 1943) Underwood barrel 9-43 and flaming bomb

Saginaw S'G' (sometime between May 1943 and January 1944) Underwood barrel 8-43 and flaming bomb

Standard Products (April-June 1944) Underwood barrel 2-44 and flaming bomb

Aside from the Rock-Ola, do you see any significance in these receiver barrel combinations? The only thing this tells ME is that all of these rifles MAY have original barrels judging by the receiver dates (determined by serial numbers) which if I understand may or may not be correct. I'm sure there are people who get into the minute details of each part. Garand collectors do it and from what I've seen carbine collectors are much worse but I still think a LOT of people just want to have an M1 Carbine for the history and to shoot. Plenty don't have a clue about the significance of different manufacturers, dates, parts, etc. I guess those are the folks I'll be selling to.

[twh]

Assuming the Saginaw is an S.G. it doesn’t have its original barrel the others may be correct.

[Tuna]

Which book are you using to try and date your carbines with? Most of the dates you listed for serial numbers are out of line and the barrel dates would be too for being original to the receivers.

[Brad in Idaho]

Which book are you using to try and date your carbines with? Most of the dates you listed for serial numbers are out of line and the barrel dates would be too for being original to the receivers.

I honestly don't remember. I have had these rifles for 10 to 12 years and documented them when I first got them. I'm thinking the info was online somewhere. Can anyone provide a link to accurate information?