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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunray View Post
    That a reload or factory? If it's a reload, it's probable that the case neck got pushed down during bullet seating or sizing. Look for a wee bulge on the shoulder. It's not usually fixable as it will probably not fit in the sizer die. However, as you got it out it's possibly the OAL is too long and the bullet was stuck in the rifling.
    That "Stuck Case Puller' is not that. It's a ruptured case puller. Meant to remove cases that has the head pulled off.
    The normal method of removing a live round, assuming you can get the bolt out, is a 1/4" brass rod(about $4 in Home Depot) into the barrel and a plastic mallet applied forcefully to said rod.
    It was a reload and the case was not showing any signs of bulging around the head. I ran it back through the resizing die and it was perfect. It was a PPU case. They are a wee bit thicker and several gr. heavier than most other cases. I tried chambering a dummy round once the stuck live round was removed and it also stuck. The thing that jammed both rounds was a barely visible piece of grit that I removed with a barrel bore brush dipped in Hoppes #9.

    I have a ruptured case removal tool that was made for my No 4 Mk 1* and have used it only once. It’s designed to remove headless cases that remain in the chamber after the bullet has been fired. I’ve since found out that a paint can opener works just as well. I carry both in my range bag.

    The Brownells Stuck Case Puller is designed to safely remove live rounds that have become jammed in the receiver. It has a collet that fits around the case head and a slide hammer that provides force that backs the stuck round out of the chamber. It’s a pretty slick tool. I thought about trying to tap the stuck round out with a rod but thought it wasn’t worth the risk.

  2. #12
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    good to know on the Paint Can opener, I have a few and will toss one in my Range stool

  3. #13
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    I use L.E. Wilson case gages for every caliber I reload. I check every round I load in my gun room. Surprises are much more pleasant in the confines of one's own home, as opposed to the range/farm/etc.
    "Wars are, of course, as a rule to be avoided; but they are far better than certain kinds of peace." - T.R.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyman View Post
    good to know on the Paint Can opener, I have a few and will toss one in my Range stool
    You may have to grind or file the hook it a little so it fits through the neck of your case. The paint can opener was going to be my second choice to pull out the stuck live round if the Brownells puller did not work since the opener’s hook did engage the head groove.
    Last edited by Merc; 06-28-2021 at 12:23. Reason: Clarification

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liam View Post
    I use L.E. Wilson case gages for every caliber I reload. I check every round I load in my gun room. Surprises are much more pleasant in the confines of one's own home, as opposed to the range/farm/etc.
    Probably a good idea to double check the case dimensions. I don’t use a Wilson gauge but I do measure the OAL and weigh each round after reloading to make sure I have the correct length and powder charge as a final QA check. The full length die pulls the case back to its original shape and makes chambering smooth. I also anneal each case every time it’s reloaded.

  6. #16

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    I've run into the same problem from time to time. Most often happens if I neck sized cases and tried to use the rounds in a different rifle than they were originally fired in. These days, for 30-06, 308/7.62 NATO and 223/5.56, I full length size in small base sizer prior to trimming and loading, as I hate segregating ammunition for specific rifles. I use those fairly common rounds in semi-autos, levers, and bolt guns interchangeably, and I'm trying to make life a bit easier (actually, I just don't have the patience for it any more...).

  7. #17
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    K
    Quote Originally Posted by Darreld Walton View Post
    I've run into the same problem from time to time. Most often happens if I neck sized cases and tried to use the rounds in a different rifle than they were originally fired in. These days, for 30-06, 308/7.62 NATO and 223/5.56, I full length size in small base sizer prior to trimming and loading, as I hate segregating ammunition for specific rifles. I use those fairly common rounds in semi-autos, levers, and bolt guns interchangeably, and I'm trying to make life a bit easier (actually, I just don't have the patience for it any more...).
    I used to neck size and went to full sizing due to the resistance chambering. Cases might not last as long. Never had any jams though.

    BTW, just got back from 10 days at Yellowstone. We stayed at a condo in Island Park, ID. There are no words to describe what we saw.

  8. #18
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    I FL size just about everything

    but do drop a round or 3 into the case gauge after I seat the bullet,

    esp if something feels off (as in a bit of pressure)

    I have had a few rounds get pushed back at the shoulder over the years,

    I can usually see or feel those, but the gauge also will catch it

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyman View Post
    I FL size just about everything

    but do drop a round or 3 into the case gauge after I seat the bullet,

    esp if something feels off (as in a bit of pressure)

    I have had a few rounds get pushed back at the shoulder over the years,

    I can usually see or feel those, but the gauge also will catch it
    Since you guys use case gauges, I thought I’d give it a try. I just bought a Wilson 30-06 Case Gauge that I found on Amazon. Should be here on Thursday. I figure it’s one more QA step that should be in the reloading process.
    Last edited by Merc; 06-28-2021 at 12:24.

  10. #20
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    for 30.06 I use my Forster Co-Ax press,
    don't ask me what sizing die, I cannot remember, but know I have a couple different makes,

    seating is down on a very old Videcki seater , it's a floating benchrest of sorts kinda seating die, works very well

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