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  1. #11

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    I don't have anything within sixty miles.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Beach Va, not Va Beach
    Posts
    10,848
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tuna View Post
    About 99% of anything on line is going to be well over priced. The Blue book of gun values it the bible used by most dealers as to the value of a firearm. Those selling on the likes of Gun Broker are so far afield that you cannot use it to judge values.
    as a dealer, I use it as a tool to help ID some stuff,

    I have learned to not use it for all pricing, since the markets are variable (location, condition, etc all change)

    at least with pricing on the net (Gunbroker closed auctions, for similar items that had a bid and actually sold) I can get an avg selling or sold price,
    you still have to look at weed out the extremely low sales, and high sales,


    not to mention, that as someone who sells for a living,, experience

  3. Default

    Pat,
    Gunbroker has a "completed listings" feature which will show the actual selling prices of guns, not what some fool thinks his is 'worth'. Unless your guns are very unusual that is a useful tool for getting a ballpark estimate. Then you factor in location, etc. A dealer will charge a transfer fee but shipping through a dealer is worth it if it disappears in transit. UPS flat out refuses to pay if it is stolen unless both ends of the transaction are a dealer.

  4. #14

    Default

    Okay, I will just post what I have. I definitely want to sell my Browning .25, made in Belgium, serial number 151454. It's in good working order but needs to be re-blued. It's cute little fella but I just replaced with a carry gun with a bit more punch.
    .
    25L.jpg 25R.jpg


    The next is my S&W .357 Highway Patrolman. This one hangs on my bedpost but it's awfully heavy. I would be better off with something lighter.

    357L.jpg 357R.jpg

    Finally, I am not set on selling it, but know I should, is my U.S Army Colt 1911 serial number 387027, I believe manufactured in 1913. The grips are not original and it has some scratches. I have loved the 1911 since I was a kid but don't have the strength left in my hands and wrists it needs. I could field strip and reassemble one in about a minute when I was ten, now it takes twenty minutes. I love it, but I know I would be better off with a new, light weight .45.

    45L.jpg

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Alabama, Gulf Coast Region
    Posts
    9,489

    Default

    OK, I'll go first

    Browning 25 = $300-$400

    S&W model 28 = $600-$800

    1911 (made in 1918) = $1200-$1500

    Providing they are as nice as they look in the pictures. Prices would be retail. If you sell to a dealer you may have to leave a little meat for him.

    Ridicule soon to follow but I did break the ice.
    Last edited by Allen; 04-24-2019 at 03:34.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Beach Va, not Va Beach
    Posts
    10,848
    Blog Entries
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Allen View Post
    OK, I'll go first

    Browning 25 = $300-$400

    S&W model 28 = $600-$800

    1911 (made in 1918) = $1200-$1500

    Providing they are as nice as they look in the pictures. Prices would be retail. If you sell to a dealer you may have to leave a little meat for him.

    Ridicule soon to follow but I did break the ice.
    east coast pricing,

    Browning,, 300-350
    Smith 650+

    1911, would go with the low end, but would want to see the parts makeup to see how much is correct

  7. #17

    Default

    Many thanks! Your estimates seem to be pretty well in line with gunbrokers.

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