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  1. #11

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    I have never had it do that on mine. Maybe because I go light? Curious.
    Never Give Up, Never Surrender!

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    In my experience, no matter what chemical you use to clean the crud off the stock, the patina of the wood will be the same. Whether it's alcohol, acetone, turpentine, mineral spirits or aggressive chemical strip, the vintage patina will be restored once you rub in the BLO, provided that you do not use any abrasives in the cleaning process, just rags or paper towels. Only when you start removing wood cells by abrading with sand paper or strong steel wool (0000 doesn't do it) will you change the patina from the dark "restored" look to the lighter "refinished" look.
    Last edited by steved66; 09-07-2018 at 10:19.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by steved66 View Post
    In my experience, no matter what chemical you use to clean the crud off the stock, the patina of the wood will be the same. Whether it's alcohol, acetone, turpentine, mineral spirits or aggressive chemical strip, the vintage patina will be restored once you rub in the BLO, provided that you do not use any abrasives in the cleaning process, just rags or paper towels. Only when you start removing wood cells by abrading with sand paper or strong steel wool (0000 doesn't do it) will you change the patina from the dark "restored" look to the lighter "refinished" look.
    This stock is no where near as dark as a lot I’ve seen. Still working on getting the last of the lead out of the barrel. Will start on the stock in the next couple weeks.
    Thanks for all the replies.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    452

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    I have used the process described on this site by Dick Hosmer. Worked well for me even though I wasn't sure if I got the mixture correct. Not sure if 1/2 meant a cup or table spoon, I used 1/2 cup. After cleaning I then used Renaissance Wax which keeps the stock from drying out. Here is the site http://www.trapdoorcollector.com/restoration.html

  5. #15

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    As I recall, the guy I got it from (now passed) used a cup of turps and a cup of linseed, with a heaping tablespoon of pumice. Kept the whole thing in an old (large) mayonnaise jar, it will last a long time, but should be shaken thoroughly before use. He had a second jar, using rottenstone - but he collected fine old shotguns, which needed the ultimate polish. For military rifles, the pumice solution will do the job.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,529

    Default

    Just one old guy's opinion, but . . . it depends.

    You say that you don't want to "alter the stock". If by that you mean you don't want to alter the original patina, that ship may have already sailed. IMO, an unmolested 136 year old stock will be darker than what I see in your pictures due to exposure to the atmosphere, sunlight, and normal handling, so I'd say your stock has already been "cleaned" at some point. (Dick Hosmer has probably handled more trapdoors than most and I would certainly welcome his correction if I'm wrong.) Still, it looks like a nice stock.

    If you truly just want to remove dirt and grime, the rule is "Go Slow". Depending on how much "crud" is on it, you might be surprised at what a gentle wipe down with water and a mild soap will accomplish. Beyond that, I agree with free1954 and Emri - odorless mineral spirits and a soft cloth are normally all that's needed. Boiled linseed oil rubbed in with a soft cloth may also remove some grime. Early on, I tried using denatured alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner, and was always disappointed with the result. They removed far more of the finish than I had intended.

    Still, as I said, it depends . . .

    Merrian-Webster defines patina as "a surface appearance of something grown beautiful especially with age or use". "Beauty" is subjective. So whether that means lightly cleaned or completely stripped & refinished, make it beautiful in your eyes.

    BTW, your stock's interior wood has survived, unfinished, for 136 years with no apparent ill effects. Brush it off with a dry toothbrush and let it be.

    JMHO
    "They've took the fun out of running the race. You never see a campfire anywhere. There's never any time for visiting." - Joe Redington Sr., 1997

  7. #17

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    This trapdoor has sat in a closet back home in the farm house for the last 45 years. At that time I loaded some trapdoor loads with a Lee loader using smokeless powder and jacketed 405 grain bullets. I shot maybe a couple dozen of them. It sat in that same closet according to family for 40 or so years previous to that.
    How my grandfather who homesteaded in Saskatchewan from Ohio in 1903 came to have it is a mystery we are trying to solve. Unless he did something to the stock all those years ago it has never been touched other than a bit of cleaning and oil I put on the metal parts 45 years ago. I just got it from a brother who shall we say had a hard time giving up things from the family farm he took over back in the 70’s a few weeks ago. It also looks exactly how I remember it looked when I left 42 years ago.
    Anyways I would like to thank all who have given advise on what to do and especially to Tom Trevor who found the SAS information.
    Last edited by Reeferman; 09-09-2018 at 05:20.

  8. #18

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    One other thing I would like advise on is what would be the best to lubricate the lock assembly with? Oil or light grease?
    I have it disassembled except haven’t gotten brave enough to seperate the hammer and tumbler. It had chunks of cosmoline in it and cleaned up very well. I’ve had all the metal soaking in Hoppes and is amazing the crap that has come off.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    452

    Default

    Thanks Dick Hosmer.

  10. Default

    I'd use oil; less chance it would dry up / become stiff.

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