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  1. #1

    Default Cleaning and oiling Trapdoor stock

    These are pictures of my 1873 trapdoor. I want to clean and oil it and have been told so many different ways and with some products I’ve never heard of. I tried one method on the stock just behind the tang where it was black. I used lacquer thinner on a rag and then rubbed a thin coat of boiled linseed oil and it seemed to be ok.
    I am not trying to alter the stock just want to clean the 136 years of crud off it and then oil it. It has lots of dings and scratches and that’s ok.
    Also should the inside of the stock be treated with the linseed oil as well with a brush?
    Last edited by Reeferman; 08-29-2018 at 12:17.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    3,701

    Default

    Go slow. Do not use steel wool, solvents, etc. Turpentine applies with care using a soft rag would be useful. JMHO. Sincerely.
    " Unlike most conservatives, libs have no problem exploiting dead children and dancing on their graves."

  3. #3

    Default

    Were you able to remove the lock plate and trigger plate WITHOUT chipping the wood?

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JimF View Post
    Were you able to remove the lock plate and trigger plate WITHOUT chipping the wood?
    It looks like the side plate may have been off before but the trigger guard came out perfect. Used Koba49 YouTube video to disassemble it and everything went smooth.

  5. #5

    Default

    Been trying to find information on the right way to clean and recoil this trapdoor stock but not finding much. The only info I’ve been able to find is on the video by the Duelist on full30. He used lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil on a carbine stock.
    I’m only going to use rags with the lacquer thinner to get to bare wood then start putting coats of linseed oil on by hand. Another question is should I put linseed oil with a brush on inside surfaces of the stock?
    I want to do this right and hoping for answers from those who have done this.
    The only things I haven’t removed from the stock are the band springs and cleaning rod stop.

  6. #6

    Default

    in my opinion, lacquer thinner is too harsh. from your pics your stock doesn't look that bad.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Robertsdale, AL / Gulf Coast region
    Posts
    1,649

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    Quote Originally Posted by free1954 View Post
    in my opinion, lacquer thinner is too harsh. from your pics your stock doesn't look that bad.
    I agree with free1954. Use mineral spirits to clean the surface. It won't remove patina and won't harm the wood. Re-oil with linseed oil. Yes, you can brush it inside the stock but, do not let it pool and dry. After a while to soak in, remove excess with rags, a tooth brush and compressed air if you have it.

    Good Luck !!

    Emri

  8. #8

    Default

    There really isn’t any patina on the wood. Only stocks I have refinished are newer ones. Used lacquer thinner and then tru oil.
    I figured if I took it down to the wood with lacquer thinner then rubbed half dozen or so coats of linseed oil on it and no sanding with anything it would still look the same but clean.

  9. #9

    Default

    I wipe mine down with denatured alcohol first. Then I would just wipe the stock down with BLO - Boiled linseed Oil. It will remove dirt. Many applications will work better than just one. Don't try and glop a bunch on with each application. Let it dry between coats. The old adage once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year works pretty well. After that, maintenance applications are all that are needed.
    Never Give Up, Never Surrender!

  10. #10

    Default

    I simply rub down repeatedly with lemon oil. Not lemon oil soap, just lemon oil. Denatured alcohol will remove the original finish.
    "A man with a tractor and a chain saw has no excuses, nor does he need any"
    Me. "Consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds" Emerson "Consistency is the darling of those that stack wood or cast bullets" Me.

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