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  1. #11

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    Talk about not doing homework?

    True Raw Linseed oil is merely oil which has been warmed and allowed to stand to remove the sediments.
    Refined Linseed Oil (which is what people actually use as "RLO" has also been treated with acid to expedite the removal of those same impurities. If your RLO has a yellowish/light amber hue to it then it's RLO as in 'refined'.

    BLO (which is not really boiled) has been refined similar to RLO (refined) but has the addition of driers to form a thicker barrier once cured.

    Stand Oil is a more refined Linseed Oil which as you noted has been heated similar to RAW to thicken. However the choice of driers and thinners are up to the user and his/her choice of application. Most artists do not use driers mixed with their paints as it does not yellow/patina. However house painters and some woodworkers do.


    Where the difference in opinions lie is in what's original, what is correct, and what is practical for today.

    Originally the rifle stocks were dipped into vats of heated oil then swung off on racks to a climate controlled drying room. We no longer have that luxury of heated vats and drying rooms, especially in our homes. Since old correspondence has surfaced mentioning the use of 'boiled oil' for maintenance, many (such as myself) choose to continue that regimen. Also, since our stocks were originally soaked in "RLO" it's already in there...to an extent at least.
    For penetration we dilute our BLO allowing it to wick into the wood fibers. Once it thickens (let's call it..dries) it then begins to give us back that patina we all adore. It also is less likely to "sweat" in our hands and onto our clothes for the next few years when we are shooting in direct sunlight.

    Stand oil is something relatively new for surplus collectors. It's said that it 'dries' much slower and doesn't age, since its use is geared more towards art than rifle stocks. If it's diluted and/or has driers added by its user (Jap drier etc.)..I don't know. Mostly because until recently it hasn't been used all that much on our end and....it's been shared by the Purist/RLO crowd as being better than the refined linseed oil. Hence my comment to P246 (not to you) and the little "winking smiley face" that you obviously missed.
    Last edited by JB White; 02-17-2017 at 08:44.
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    **Never quite as old as the other old farts**

  2. Default

    Stand oil is actual boiled linseed oil heated to 300 degrees and when heated it is polymerized and forms long molectular chains and becomes thicker.

    Todays fake BLO is linseed oil with japan drier added and thickening agents.

    Heated or thinned raw Linseed oil soaks deeper into the wood than any form of BLO that is designed as a faster drying surface application.

    And my point being raw linseed oil is what was used on our American and British military small arms and any form of BLO was never used.

    Pure raw linseed oil is non-toxic and can be applied bare handed without wearing protective gloves.

    I do not care if you put whale snot on your stocks, I'm just telling everyone the military used raw linseed oil and never used BLO.

    The principle behind raw linseed oil is the same as building a wooded canoe. Raw linseed oil is applied until the wood will not absorb any more then varnish is applied to the surface. The raw linseed oil prevents wood shrinkage and water leakage and the varnish is a protective outer coating.

    Bottom line, the military used raw linseed oil and never used BLO for a reason. And the use of BLO is nothing more than a Internet myth.

    And truth be told my refinished shooter Enfields and M1 rifles were treated like a canoe, 75% military with a 25% non-military protective outer coating.
    Last edited by bigedp51; 02-17-2017 at 02:39.

  3. #13
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    Stand Oil is what I happen to have, the peer pressure comment was apparently a failed attempt at humor. I know it's not the same as the original Raw Linseed Oil. However it is close enough for me and does not turn color with age. The stock repair wo't be original either. For one modern glues such as tite bond III did not exist. The stand Oil finish is simply picked for this stock because I actually hunt white tail with it. BLO can be a little difficult to get the "sheen" out of. Once again this is a hobby for me and I'm sure there are plenty who could knock BLO sheen down but I struggle with that. I could have picked tung oil to but just decided to go stand oil this time. Maybe you can do a write up refinishing a stock with true RLO. I might do it one day, butI'm hoping my stuff don't crack for a while.

    Edit: I will also add that many manufacturers advertise their RLO as being the real deal when it's actually refined some. It's gotten to the point one must actually call the manufacturer and ask.
    Last edited by p246; 02-17-2017 at 05:13.

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    Quote Originally Posted by p246 View Post
    Stand Oil is what I happen to have, the peer pressure comment was apparently a failed attempt at humor. I know it's not the same as the original Raw Linseed Oil. However it is close enough for me and does not turn color with age. The stock repair wo't be original either. For one modern glues such as tite bond III did not exist. The stand Oil finish is simply picked for this stock because I actually hunt white tail with it. BLO can be a little difficult to get the "sheen" out of. Once again this is a hobby for me and I'm sure there are plenty who could knock BLO sheen down but I struggle with that. I could have picked tung oil to but just decided to go stand oil this time. Maybe you can do a write up refinishing a stock with true RLO. I might do it one day, butI'm hoping my stuff don't crack for a while.

    I wrote many postings on types of linseed oil in the past and posted photos of the different types of oils found in hobby stores that sold oil painting supplies applied to a butt stock.
    The peer pressure comment made by Mr. White is because we have "discussed" BLO and RLO hundreds of times.

    I sold off the majority of my milsurp rifles and bought new rifles that I could put scopes on for my chronologically gifted eyesight.

    At one time I had the only and largest Enfield book and manual stickys anywhere on the Internet. I was accused of breaking copyright laws and both stickys were shut down. The strange thing is everything I had in my stickys is now at milsurps.com and not breaking any copyright laws. And Badger banned me from his website for posting a photo at another website and said I was violating copyright laws. Its amazing what Steve Ridgwell at .303british.com and Badger did at milsurps to control what I was giving away for free.

    I don't care what you put on your stocks, I'm just tell you what the military used and it was non-toxic and rubbed on by hand.
    Last edited by bigedp51; 02-17-2017 at 05:34.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigedp51 View Post
    I wrote many postings on types of linseed oil in the past and posted photos of the different types of oils found in hobby stores that sold oil painting supplies applied to a butt stock.
    The peer pressure comment made by Mr. White is because we have "discussed" BLO and RLO hundreds of times.

    I sold off the majority of my milsurp rifles and bought new rifles that I could put scopes on for my chronologically gifted eyesight.

    At one time I had the only and largest Enfield book and manual stickys anywhere on the Internet. I was accused of breaking copyright laws and both stickys were shut down. The strange thing is everything I had in my stickys is now at milsurps.com and not breaking any copyright laws. And Badger banned me from his website for posting a photo at another website and said I was violating copyright laws. Its amazing what Steve Ridgwell at .303british.com and Badger did at milsurps to control what I was giving away for free.

    I don't care what you put on your stocks, I'm just tell you what the military used and it was non-toxic and rubbed on by hand.
    Only joining milsurps recently I have no knowledge of that and am sorry there was that kind of drama. The cold pressed Linseed oil, refined Linseed oil, BLO debate will go on. My use of stand Oil is me simply raiding the wife's art supplies. If I had cold pressed on hand I wouldn't be against using it. So I acknowledge there are more traditional methods of RLO. Having said that I don't want to get sidetracked. If one wants to look up the cold pressed Linseed oils and different grades of turpentine google/bing will bring up a lot of information.

  6. #16

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    Ed, you and I had a few discussions over the past couple of decades but I don't recall any "discussions". Aside from maybe being involved in the same thread with numerous others on various boards.
    As far as you being banned from other collectors boards, I do recall your being warned about uncredited content you were posting in addition to your behavior at that time. If you swipe someone else's work and take it upon yourself to distribute it...
    You were also banned from Gunboards and at least one more that you neglected to mention.

    It's a shame that you can't simply offer your work and opinions without expecting others to toe your line and bow at your altar. People should be allowed to take it or leave it without controversy. Too bad. Some of the things you came up with on your own I found quite interesting.
    2016 Chicago Cubs. MLB Champions!


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  7. #17
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    Prior to gluing I carefully outline the crack with Waxilit. I use a q tip and toothpick to apply the wax. One must be careful not to get any Waxilit where you want the glue to stick. When the glue is squeezed out of the crack it will not stick to the surface you don't want glue on (booger tracks-technical term). Once the glue dries it can be pulled off the waxed areas and trimmed up over the crack. Waxilit can be easily cleaned off with acetone when done. Waxilit is a little pricey but 70grams goes a long ways. I've had much better luck this way than with tape. Any other methods aside from Waxilit or tape out there.IMG_1503.jpg

  8. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JB White View Post
    Ed, you and I had a few discussions over the past couple of decades but I don't recall any "discussions". Aside from maybe being involved in the same thread with numerous others on various boards.
    As far as you being banned from other collectors boards, I do recall your being warned about uncredited content you were posting in addition to your behavior at that time. If you swipe someone else's work and take it upon yourself to distribute it...
    You were also banned from Gunboards and at least one more that you neglected to mention.

    It's a shame that you can't simply offer your work and opinions without expecting others to toe your line and bow at your altar. People should be allowed to take it or leave it without controversy. Too bad. Some of the things you came up with on your own I found quite interesting.
    Actually its a shame you get bent out of shape when people post the facts on RLO that contradict you using BLO.

    And Gunboards and Parallax Bills is where my Enfield stickys were and closed down and where deals were made between the owners of the other websites to shut down my sticky. And its Badger at milsurps who was served a letter from a Lawyer concerning Jim Sweets book that was put back in print by his daughter. I was told the copyright was renewed but for some strange reason the Australian that warned me never said a word to that back stabbing Badger and he got what he deserved.

    And Gunboards is where Alan De Enfield AKA Alan De Pretentious is using all my photos and taking credit for my work. And you never saw any posting in a Enfield forum where I was warned about "being warned about uncredited content". After my sticky was shut down the owner got bent out of shape when I gave out more Enfield manuals under the posting subject of "Free Beer". So go to Gunboards and look at all the images that Alan De Enfield is posting and try and to remember who posted them first. Alan De Enfield never had a original idea in his life and just posts images and information he copied from someone else.

    And our "discussions" were the ones just like this one and you not liking someone bringing up the subject of raw linseed oil after you telling people to use BLO.

    And anything I posted normally came from all the manuals I had or talking to British and Commonwealth armourers. Meaning you never saw me telling anyone to use BLO.

    So here you are getting bent out of shape "again" as usual and spreading crap over the subject of the proper type oil to apply to a stock.
    Last edited by bigedp51; 02-17-2017 at 09:43.

  9. #19
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    Right side crack was spread after Waxilit applied. Tite Bond III was then worked into the crack with a business card. I keep scissors handy and keep cutting away the card as it gets soft from glue on the tip. I work glue in until I can see it coming out on the inside. I then clamp it down with two clamps equipped with rubber pads. The glue will squeeze out and form a line over the crack. I wait till the glue gets tacky then wipe off excess with damp rag. The Waxilit will remain on the stock. Keep in mind some of this will depend on what glue you use.

    In the photos you can see the film of Waxilit. I took a damp q tip and traced over where the crack was for the photo. Tite Bond calls for 30 minutes minimum dry time. I leave it clamped for an entire day, probably overkill.
    IMG_1528.jpgIMG_1529.jpg
    Last edited by p246; 02-17-2017 at 09:58.

  10. #20

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    Waxilit...neat trick. That's a new one on me. I've always used tape and a scraper, and paste wax. I'm sure you remember those old drills?
    I'll bet the guys back in the cabinet shop knew about it but they didn't tell us out in the field....those bassturds! LOL
    2016 Chicago Cubs. MLB Champions!


    **Never quite as old as the other old farts**

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