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  1. #1
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    Default Lithgow stock repair

    So just starting a running thread on the subject of a Lithgow Coachwood stock I need to fix. I plan to update the thread as I go step by step. I claim no expert status just like to work on my own stuff. I'll post the plan and if you have a better idea let me know I have thick skin.

    Back story 1941 Lithgow rebuilt in 1945 and given a new barrel. Stock and hadguard appear to match in wear but forwood looks much less abused. The forward had a crack on right side that had been fixed with two brass pins (IMO this fix is non military). This is a rifle I shoot and the last session it cracked on the left side along the wood grain. I need to fix the left crack and I want to improve the fix on the right side. All without screwing up my fit on the gun as it was shooting well. Pics below, on post two I'all post my current plan. IMG_1498.jpgIMG_1499.jpgIMG_1500.jpg

  2. #2
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    Default

    First I need to get the oil off so glue will stick. I plan to immerse it in acetone for one hour. Pull it and let it air dry for a couple days. Spread left crack and work Tite Bond III into it, clamp it up and let it dry. On the right side same but spreading crack will not be possible. Once dry drill for an Oak peg in the back of the left crack and center of right. Finish pegs to match wood level. I''m thinking I should cut dutchmans at the end of each crack to ensure they do not walk but this might be overkill. Once fitted I'll submit to peer pressure and refinish it with raw Linseed oil cut with turpentine. The RLO will be stand Oil bought at a hobby shop. Any input before I jump in is welcome.

  3. #3

    Default

    Going with RLO means you've submitted to peer pressure from one segment of the community.

    Get yourself a little chunk of coachwood. Old sporterized stocks are an excellent source. Aside from cutting them up to make patches, the smaller cutoffs can be used to produce coachwood sawdust. Handy for stopping cracks from traveling further. Drill a small hole at the very end of the crack and make up a "sawdust putty" as a filler. This is where BLO comes in handy because it does harden to a point where the "plug" will become almost invisible. You may not be able to see the very end of the crack, so use a little mineral spirits to highlight the grain.

    When pinning a crack as you have done, I have always predrilled, then at times tapped the hole in the wood while clamped. That way when I install my homemade threaded rod it will grab without spreading apart the grain.
    If you wish to hide the rod, you can drill the top slightly below the surface. That's where the sawdust putty and BLO comes in handy again.

    BTW, I feel oak to be a terrible wood for stock work. Other hardwoods have tighter grain and will color to match much more readily. Oak is an open grain, tears more easily, and darkens to black when used as a dowel.
    Last edited by JB White; 02-16-2017 at 09:41.
    2016 Chicago Cubs. MLB Champions!


    **Never quite as old as the other old farts**

  4. #4
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    Default

    Thanks JB, which hardwood dowel do you suggest. Oak is just any easy hardwood to find here. White Pine being the other one, but not a hard wood. (EDIT: I FOUND A LOCAL SOURE FOR HARDWOOD MAPLE DOWEL WOULD THAT WORK BETTER)

    The two pins someone else used on the right side either were not pre drilled or were way to small which is why it cracked again where they were inserted. I'd like to pull them drill and use my own pin, but pulling them might be an issue.

    I do have a coachwood sporter stock. I was going to use it for my Dutchman wood slivers. I was going with a Dutchman approach as it's a traditional way they were fixed in the military. Your method is much less time consuming. I don't know which is stronger. I have plenty of time for this project, but only want to do it once.

    I figured the RLO finish would just be a good discussion,
    Last edited by p246; 02-16-2017 at 02:04.

  5. #5

    Default

    Maple is a much better alternative than oak IMHO. I've used the 'pinhole' method to stop a crack from traveling when I didn't want to see a patchwork on the side of an otherwise nice looking rifle. If you feel as though you can exactly duplicate a proper armorers repair then it's up to you. Just don't use an India method on an Australian arm, or a US type of repair on a British arm. I'm sure you know the difference by now, so let's not give the forgers something else to work with eh?
    A repair is a repair. Something we can do to preserve without being overly intrusive. I tended to use the larger repairs when something was actually missing and needed putting back to be functional. ie. the chunks sometimes missing from along side the triggerguard, or a kerf repair to save an original and matching handguard.

    For the record, is the oak dowel from your local store actually oak, or is it ash? Ash resembles oak once finished. That's why much packaged decorative work, such as finials, sold as oak are really ash. Ash turns better without tearing out.
    2016 Chicago Cubs. MLB Champions!


    **Never quite as old as the other old farts**

  6. #6
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    Default

    Thanks for the input. This dowel is actually Oak, there is a local cabinet repair guy I got it from. He also has hard maple, just didn't ask. Your pin hole method or hiding brass wire screw under plug probably makes more sense on these cracks. The right side does not appear to be glued just pinned. I'm going to try and gently spread it and see if the brass pins will stand up to be pulled. If they were just cut off brass nails there is a chance. If true wire screws or what ever they are called then they won't. At that point I might try to set them deep enough to drill and plug. The right side was fixed by bubba. Does anyone marked there stock as repaired in modern times for ethical reasons. I thought about putting a note in the butt trap, but someone could just throw it away.

  7. #7

    Default

    I often forgot to do this, but on most occasions I just penciled a date and my initials inside the forend or under the handguard. Later I used a fine point Sharpie. If I did a restoration I made sure to do it in several locations including beneath the buttplate.
    So, if you ever discover the initials JBW with a US type date format...odds are it might have been me.
    For the record, I never passed one off as original, nor did I ever sell one at the same price as original. Never had a problem selling so long as I was honest about it. Had a good number tell me thanks and not buy, but the next one who came along didn't seem to mind.
    Reminded myself of the time I sold a repro P'03 bayonet frog. The buyer INSISTED it was the real deal. Even after I insisted that I was the one who made it! I simply copied another repro. Showed him my own markings! He walked off thinking he had stolen it. There are some crazies out there...but they have money.
    2016 Chicago Cubs. MLB Champions!


    **Never quite as old as the other old farts**

  8. #8
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    Default

    Nice story. I like your idea so I'll mark the inside of the stock in a few places, and do the same to my others I've fixed. I have not sold any, probably won't for years. Kids are interested in American stuff but not the L.E.s....yet. If that holds in 30 years or so I'll pass them on to next guy.

    No luck getting bubba pins out. I can spread it but pins don't work out. I'all probably glue it up tight and dowel it between pins and just leave them where they are. I guess they at least might add some side to side support but that's it.

  9. #9
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    Default

    Out of the acetone. Now to let is air dry a couple days.IMG_1501.jpgIMG_1502.jpg

  10. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JB White View Post
    Going with RLO means you've submitted to peer pressure from one segment of the community.
    He didn't give in, stand oil is actual boiled linseed oil. So he gave into you or else didn't do his homework.


    Stand Oil, manufactured by heating a pure refined linseed oil, is a heavy oil that wets pigments well.

    Stand oil is linseed oil that has been polymerized by heating. It is thicker than cold pressed or alkalai refined oils, and has almost no tendency to yellow. It is useful for glazing, and helps to eliminate brush marks. AP non-toxic.




    Oil Painting Mediums
    http://www.dickblick.com/categories/...danddryingoils
    Last edited by bigedp51; 02-17-2017 at 12:29.

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