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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Default Lithgow stock finish...

    I just acquired a new-condition Lithgow #1 Mk 3* (one of the John Jovino guns). It is perfectly new, but the stock is bone-dry and doesn't appear to have ever had any sort of finish applied to the wood. So... what sort of finish is appropriate? Linseed oil? Boiled, raw? Something else?

    Thanks;

    mhb - MIke
    Last edited by mhb; 01-24-2017 at 07:30.
    Sancho! My armor!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    kansas
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    Default

    They used BLO, I use two parts turpentine to 1 part BLO and I get good penetration, let it dry for a day and do it again. On an unfinished stock it may need several coats. j.B or Sunray might be able to narrow down the actual cut Lithgow used with turpentine but if memory serves its two to one. When you get it done some before/after pics would be awesome.

    As a side note I used some raw Linseed cut oil in a coachwood stock once to see what the difference would be. I'm not sure it completely dried after a week. The end finish was similiar but the finishing wax really didn't rub in. I think it was because the Linseed oil had not completely dried. It ended up being a pain in the rear but I still got it.

  3. #3
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    London, Ontario
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    Default

    Raw Linseed oil doesn't dry. Boiled will.
    Biggest issue with oiling stocks is that most people slather the stuff on like they have stock in the company. Better to use several light coats.
    Kind of doubt the Aussies cut anything. Costs money. Stocks were usually dunked in BLO and hung to dry.
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  4. #4
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    Default Thanks, guys...

    The U.S. used BLO (heated), and dunked the stocks in it, then allowed them to 'drip-dry'. It doesn't appear that these coachwood stocks were oiled at all before they went into storage.
    I do use BLO, but apply it with my bare hand and rub it in thoroughly a small amount at a time, while leaving sufficient time for it to dry between coats. That usually gives a nice finish and fills the grain well, without leaving drips and runs.
    I also like to use a varnish (Minwax polyurethane) on the inside of the stock (where it won't show) for waterproofing and to help prevent warping, and, in the case of a 2-piece stock, as on an Enfield, also varnish the socket end of the butt and under the buttplate.

    mhb - MIke
    Sancho! My armor!

  5. #5
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    Mar 2013
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    kansas
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunray View Post
    Raw Linseed oil doesn't dry. Boiled will.
    Biggest issue with oiling stocks is that most people slather the stuff on like they have stock in the company. Better to use several light coats.
    Kind of doubt the Aussies cut anything. Costs money. Stocks were usually dunked in BLO and hung to dry.
    Thanks for hammering that point Sunray. I dip two fingers in the jar and rub the wood till it creates some heat.Lightly wipe excess off and let dry. I think a lot of the overuse is the thought of original factory dipping the entire gun.

    Your probably right as dipping freshly cured timber en mass versus old timberone at a time is much different. When I started I did 50/50 BLO but didn't get great penetration. the 2 to 1 came from info learned here.

  6. #6

    Default

    For lack of a drying room, BLO is the way to go in my opinion. Others will bang their fist while screaming "originality", but at this stage of the game I don't think it matters. We aren't churning out factory fresh stocks on brand new ordnance approved rifles.

    The trick is to go slow as already mentioned. Slather on the first coat diluted and let the wood drink. Rub it all off after 20 minutes. Then let it dry well. Afterward just rub in small amounts and rub it off while buffing with a soft cloth.

    For that dark blood color, add a few drops of creosote into the mix if you have some available. Gives it that 'smell' too.
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  7. #7
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    Aug 2009
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    Default I guess the next logical question...

    is whether any stain was used by the Aussies, and if so, what? Or did they simply apply the BLO and let time provide any darkening effect?

    mhb - MIke
    Sancho! My armor!

  8. #8

    Default

    Let time do the job.

    The creosote made it darker, giving what a few collectors call an ox blood color. It can be faked with aniline dyes, but if you aren't familiar with them you can ruin the desired effect. For now just oil it.

    FWIW using straight, undiluted BLO will darken quicker but the penetration won't be as much. With coachwood it needs to be oiled well. Also, the 'king screw' needs to be torqued "gorilla tight" to help prevent the forend from splitting on recoil. Of course this is a moot point should there be improper contact at the draws.
    2016 Chicago Cubs. MLB Champions!


    **Never quite as old as the other old farts**

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    S.E. Arizona
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    Default Thanks, JB...

    Did the Aussies actually use creosote in their oil mix?
    And, I've been studying-up on bedding the Lee-Enfields - this will be my first attempt at setting-up a #1, though my work on a #4 yielded good results. I'm hoping that the new condition of the wood (and metal) on this Lithgow will give me a good starting point for an accurate rifle.
    FWIW, my 1934 edition of the A.G. Parker catalog says that they guaranteed the SMLE rifles they built would deliver 1 1/2 MOA at 100 yards, but did not specify with what ammunition. If they could do that with Mk VII ball, they were really good... I spoke with a couple of friendly Brits at the Las Vegas show (one a director of the British NRA and long-time competitor), and they didn't believe it, either, but thought it might have been possible with selected lots of Radway Green ball - which seems unlikely, as the information I've been able to find says that the RG factory was only established in 1940.

    mhb - Mike
    Last edited by mhb; 01-26-2017 at 11:48.
    Sancho! My armor!

  10. #10

    Default

    JB,
    Which is the "King Screw" on a No I Mk III*?
    Thanks
    Jon

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