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Nice. I have one too, purchase in the Tuco group buy back in '99. Will have to post a few pix.
Cheers,
Mark
"I strive to consistently shoot to the level of accuracy that I only occasionally achieve" - Mark
Alea Iacta Est
Found mine between '88 and '92.
Cheers
EVER SHOT AT TARGET AT 600 YARDS??
Since there are no audible clicks with the scope how did one remember elevation and windage from 200 yard zero???
i entered the cmp sniper for eastern games, and do not want to get totally embarrased and will be using winchester fmj 180 grains, bought three hundred rounds to work up the rifle
serious suggestions would be nice
like i said dont want to be embarrased too much
zero for 300 and learn your hold off or mark the drum your self. I have a friend in the UK who is using 15'H and 6'R hold at 900 meters with the Swedish 6.5X55 M41b and wins natioonal matchs. If your bracket has been centered with he bore then you should be OK but still practice a few times. If you just slap the bracket on there and only use the drums only to zero you will never make the distance and the error will multiply past you zero. There are several articals on alignment of the scope and bracket and setting the drums after. Clicks? We don't use no stinking clicks amigo. No I have never shoot one at 600 yards 400 yes. From my 100y zero I have almost 6' of drop at 400y. Why would I try 600y? For 600 I wold use an Enfield which I do shoot 600 with. Good luck and use very good ammo. 174g SMK bullets and IMR 4064 if you can. Please post you efforts as I would like to know how it goes.
....200y...
Cheers
I remember reading the process for zeroing these rifles years ago. I believe the system is set up for 147 gr light ball but don't hold me to that.
1. Bring a lot of ammo.
2. You initially zero the rifle with the telescopic sight base, not the scope adjustments. With that in mind set the elevation adjustment on 100 meters and the windage adjustment on zero.
3. A boresighter wouldh help a lot wiht this part. Using the screws on the base zero the rifle to hit the point of aim at 100 meters. If you don't have a borsighter it takes a LOT of ammunition to zero the weapon. Do not fiddle with the scope knobs at all during this stage
4. With the rifle thus sighted in to hit at 200 yards with the rifle zeroed for 100 yards simply move the elevation dial to the 200 yard mark. The person I know of who did this said the rifle hit amazingly close to the center of the target at 200 yards with no other adjustment than moving the elevation nob to the appropriate range.
Again, this only works with tha ammunition the system was designed with in mind.
Happy shooting
Quite an ingenious set up in my humble opinion
What is the difference between the sniper mosin and the regular Mosin rifle. Im sure they have been worked over. How did the improve the trigger pull????????????
I understand that besides the turned down bolt and the scope and mount there wasn't a whole lot of difference between the regular and sniper versions. I have read that like the Brits the Soviets would pick rifles that showed exceptional accuracy in testing to be used in the sniper role. How much modification was done beyond that point I'll defer to true experts on the weapons for.
I've found triggers on Moisin-Nagants to be consistant in their inconsistancy. The ones I've tried seem to vary from very good to very poor. I actually own an M 44 that has a very, very good trigger. Just luck of the draw I guess.
Dont forget your flat file and square.
clamp the rifle in a sight and vise shooting rest
removed the bolt and look thru the bore and center your target in the bore
adjust the mount so the post is centered in the target
fire 3 rounds and check your target and adjust as needed
The post when zeroed at 100 should be in the top 1/2 of the scope so you have the full elevation of the scope.