It was sanded.
The wood was sanded after the cartouche was applied. It then was exposed to something to raise the grain back to the original level. But when it came back up to its original level, because some of that original level had been removed it ended up proud or above it.
Think about it - it can only ever get back to the level at which it was made. If it ends up above it, it can only mean that some of that original level had been removed while it was down.
Far enough right to just be, ... right.