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  1. #1
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    Default 1903 Parts Interchangeability

    I got a nice 03 sporter a few years back but the bolt bending job left a lot to be desired.
    I picked up an 03 sporter bolt which looks real nice. I stripped my old bolt(1919 Springfield Armoury Mk1) and the old cocking piece(wrong name?) will not screw into the new bolt body, just stops like it is hitting a shoulder, threads won't even begin to engage in the bolt body. The new bolt may be off an 03/A3, not sure, no marks except an R in a circle on the extractor collar(Remington?). The R makes me think Remington so much later production. Am I barking up the wrong tree trying to fit parts that are different dimensions?
    I should add that I already checked headspace on the new bolt and it closes on the go gauge and won't on the no go gauge.
    Last edited by mike webb; 12-16-2014 at 06:56.

  2. #2

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    if your messing with sporter type bolts, caution with warped bolt bodies, from being done without a heat sink.
    if it aint broke...fix it till it finally is.

  3. #3
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    Default

    So it is possible that the internal threads on the new bolt body are distorted? Outside of that the 1919 internals should fit in a later production bolt body?

  4. #4
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    Default

    Two questions, is the safety switch original or is it a sporter type, ie Beuhler? Is the firing pin/internals in the right position to install? Usually when removing the internals from a bolt, you pull back on the firing pin knob and swing the safety switch to the straight up position, depress the bolt lock button and unscrew. Goes back in as removed until the button lines up in it's notch and then flip the safety on/off to release the spring tension. Often times the sporter safeties either won't swing up or you have to fiddle with them by moving the firing pin knob back and forth a bit to find where they will.

    Kurt
    Last edited by Kurt; 12-16-2014 at 11:23.
    As the late Turner Kirkland was fond of saying, "If you want good oats, you have to pay the price. If you'll take oats that have already been through the horse, those come cheaper."

  5. #5
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    Default

    It has a Buehler safety on it so bolt disassembly is different due to the fact that the safety has no central position to make it easier to unscrew the cocking piece from the bolt body. I have to remove the bolt from the rifle, depress the spring loaded stud and pull back against the spring while unscrewing the cocking piece. But I removed the firing pin and spring from the assembly and the cocking piece will not screw into the bolt body like it is supposed to. Won't even start into the threads.

  6. #6
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    Default

    I have had to do the same with the Buehler safety. I take it you are saying, with everything stripped from the bolt, the bolt shroud won't screw into the body? If so, one or the other is hosed up pretty well and you'll have to determine which one. Certainly not common with inter-changeability.
    As the late Turner Kirkland was fond of saying, "If you want good oats, you have to pay the price. If you'll take oats that have already been through the horse, those come cheaper."

  7. #7
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    Default

    I'm thinking like Chuck said, the new bolt body may be pooched from heating without a heat sink. The bolt shroud alone will not screw into the bolt body. I guess I'll just hang onto my weird looking bolt at least it works. Checked some older posts and the new bolt is an A3 as it has the square safety notch and the body is undercut slightly in the middle.

  8. #8
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    Agree, Chuck's certainly has seen just about everything and knows his stuff. I have probably 20 bolts, half in guns half loos3. I have a bare 03 receiver and ran a bunch in that and was somewhat surprised to find some loose, some wouldn't close and the rest in-between. It certainly gives merit to bolt lapping and getting it right when dealing with them.

    Kurt
    As the late Turner Kirkland was fond of saying, "If you want good oats, you have to pay the price. If you'll take oats that have already been through the horse, those come cheaper."

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