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  1. #11

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    In fact - I'd hazard a guess that it is NOT the barrel failing.
    The headspace 'wear' points on an Enfield are the locking lugs on the bolt/action.

    The locking lugs are hardened (very thinly) and are virtually always the point of failure. It is important that the bolt locking lugs 'fit evenly' against the action lugs and the first few firings/recoil actually 'sets' the lugs - this is why you cannot just stick a 'new' (or second hand) bolt into an 'old' receiver. A new bolt needs FITTING in the proper sense of the term.

    Notes from Peter laidler :

    First things first. Bolts could only be fitted at Field and Base workshops because they were the only ones that had a 'GAUGE, Inspectors, Bolt'. This is a brand new, calibrated bolt. Still in white metal and marked as such. If my memory serves me right, the slot in the long/top locking lug is machined right through to identify it. So that's the reason if you have ever seen one. This bolt is bare. Clean the locking lug surfaces of the rifle and put a smear of 'engineers blue' marking dye onto the corresponding locking surfaces of the inspectors bolt. Insert this bolt RIGHT FORWARD, rotate it closed, then draw it backwards and forwards a couple of times to mark the mating locking surfaces of the rifle. Push it forwards, unlock and remove.
    Examine the locking surfaces of the rifle. The blue witness marks should be evident. This ensures that whatever wear that has taken place on the rifle locking surfaces has taken place equally. If its not, then I'm afraid that the rifle is unserviceable.
    BUT, that's not quite the end of the story because you won't have this 'Gauge, Inspectors, bolt' but it's only right that I tell you. Now for a little secret. If you have ever bought a rifle that has a sploge of red paint on the left side, adjacent to the internal left side locking lug, then you now know that the rifle was condemned for 'worn locking lugs'.
    If you are going to fit a second hand or new bolt, then do the same thing. If the dye pattern is one sided, then stone the high surface of the bolt until BOTH locking lugs bear evenly against the locking surfaces of the corresponding surfaces in the body. BUT DO NOT ATTEMPT to stone the rifle to get a bolt to fit (you can only get to the right hand surface in any case ....). The rifle body is induction hardened at these points to a depth of .004 - .006" .........................................

  2. Default

    I got a #3 bolt-head a few years back from a Enfield parts seller in Calgary Canada...just cannot remember the gentleman's name??

    I had to get a different bolt-head for my No.4 Mk.I...it had like a #0 head by measurement(marked as a #1 size)...however there was enough slack in the head-space it wouldn't fire a cartridge!! The #3 size bolt-head fixed that issue and gave good enough headspace

  3. #13

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    Okay...I found a #1 bolt head & tried it out. It passed both the no go & field gauges. Now to get the extractor spring & extractor installed.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by budmant View Post
    Okay...I found a #1 bolt head & tried it out. It passed both the no go & field gauges. Now to get the extractor spring & extractor installed.
    Please make sure it 'clocks' correctly - if it doesnt ,after you've fired a few rounds you'll be back to where you were.
    Clocking is just as (if not more so) important than headspace.

  5. #15

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    Please explain what you mean by "clocks". Thank you.

  6. #16

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    "Clock" ensure the bolt head aligns with the bolt body. Any 'overturn' is detrimental but if you get up to 20 degrees then you start to have problems.
    If you click on the link I posted in post #4 you will see what I mean.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by budmant View Post
    Okay...I found a #1 bolt head & tried it out. It passed both the no go & field gauges. Now to get the extractor spring & extractor installed.
    Installing the spring. Get some dental floss. make a double loop through the spring,feed it through the bolt head and pull the spring into position. Have installed a couple of springs in that way. Or you could spend money and get the ordnance tool

  8. #18

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    Use waxed floss...or the frayed line will be tougher to completely remove. (voice of experience )
    2016 Chicago Cubs. MLB Champions!


    **Never quite as old as the other old farts**

  9. #19

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    How about braided fishing line such as Fireline?

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by budmant View Post
    How about braided fishing line such as Fireline?
    I haven't heard but I'm thinking......
    So long as it has both the ability to flatten without snapping, and is able to roll around a screwdriver shank (as a T-handle) without too much slippage. I reckon it would be worth a try if you have some on hand. Then you could let us know!!!
    2016 Chicago Cubs. MLB Champions!


    **Never quite as old as the other old farts**

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