91/30 bolt operation.

[Nate]

Some time ago I owned the Hungarian sniper version and it was a delight. This new rifle has a main spring so powerful that bolt manipulation is difficult. Engaging the safety is impossible. Is this just a question of trimming a few coils off the spring or is there more to it?

[Art]

Nobody else has taken a crack at this so I'll try.

1. If you ever owned any Russian/Soviet Model 91, Model 91/30 or any of their derivatives and the safety wasn't a beast to operate you got a true jewel.

2. Is bolt manipulation difficult when the weapon is unloaded? Many of these rifles are difficult to open after firing full power steel cased ammunition. My Model 44 almost always is difficult to open after firing steel cased ammo but opens easily after firing brass cased cartridges. If operating the bolt is difficult with the weapon unloaded the first step would be to disassemble and thoroughly inspect and clean the bolt mechanism. If that doesn't solve the cocking problem a trip to a gunsmith with some experience with these weapons might be in order.

[Nate]

Art, I have dissembled a Mosin bolt once before and I'm not looking forward to it. But, if that is what it takes, it will be done. Thanks.

[CHW2021]

In addition to the above, check the firing pin protrusion; I assume that you have shot the gun, if so how did the primers look?
Also, the Russians were much more concerned with function than the "little details" of ease of use, heavy spring tension can make for reliable firing. Should you have a second Mosin, try swapping bolts for a test to see if the issue is related to the spring at all.

Last, I would recommend buying a replacement spring before cutting a "original" one that works; easier to correct if you have a known component. Have fun.

[Nate]

This bolt did not disassemble as per the instructions. Nothing lined up.Got it back together OK. Funny thing about this rifle is that it is all matching, including the bayonet, except the receiver. The only receiver markings on what looks like an after market cheap job is C.I. A., Georgia, UT. There is also a marking for the caliber. Kinda looks like some put together. Don't mind, the ammo that came with it is worth half the cost of the rifle.

[Nate]

Correction, there is the serial number which stars with 9130 plus 5 digits.

[Toulgas]

Nobody else has taken a crack at this so I'll try.

1. If you ever owned any Russian/Soviet Model 91, Model 91/30 or any of their derivatives and the safety wasn't a beast to operate you got a true jewel.

2. Is bolt manipulation difficult when the weapon is unloaded? Many of these rifles are difficult to open after firing full power steel cased ammunition. My Model 44 almost always is difficult to open after firing steel cased ammo but opens easily after firing brass cased cartridges. If operating the bolt is difficult with the weapon unloaded the first step would be to disassemble and thoroughly inspect and clean the bolt mechanism. If that doesn't solve the cocking problem a trip to a gunsmith with some experience with these weapons might be in order.

Hi, Art- I have had the same problem with steel cased ammo. I have read, and now believe, these are coated with some kind of lacquer, which ostensibly was a rust preventative for the steel(?) It occurs to me now that I could simply wipe off some rounds with lacquer thinner, and then give it a go, duh. At the range, the rifle cycled ok, but got sticky, and then frozen to the point that I had to whack the bolt open with a piece of wood, after it had cooled a while. Could be this type of ammo is more suited to machine guns- more generous chamber dimensions, etc...

[Art]

Hi, Art- I have had the same problem with steel cased ammo. I have read, and now believe, these are coated with some kind of lacquer, which ostensibly was a rust preventative for the steel(?) It occurs to me now that I could simply wipe off some rounds with lacquer thinner, and then give it a go, duh. At the range, the rifle cycled ok, but got sticky, and then frozen to the point that I had to whack the bolt open with a piece of wood, after it had cooled a while. Could be this type of ammo is more suited to machine guns- more generous chamber dimensions, etc...

I had read, for what its worth, that the change from brass to steel case ammunition was caused by the tendency of the extractors on the M1938 and M1940 rifles which had tilting bolts and no primary extraction, to sometimes tear through the rims of brass case ammo . Steel ammo was much cheaper, worked fine in machine guns and in the autoloading rifles which were supposed to replace the Mosins and therefore became standard; or so went the story. I don't know if it's just the lacquer, I've had very sticky extraction with Soviet/Russian copper washed steel cases too.

I've never had to beat a bolt open with a piece of wood using steel cased ammo but I have, especially after a magazine or two, had to give the bottom of the bolt two or three sharp raps on the bottom of the bolt handle to fee it. Brass case ammo, on the other hand, extracts and ejects smooth as silk. I recall seeing film of Russian soldiers in WWII giving the bolt handle on there rifles quite a sharp lick on the upstroke.

[CHW2021]

My experience is that some ammo simply cycles better than other, my rifles seem to like russian (steel and copperwash) and hungarian ammo but give me fits with bolt opening on czech and any heavy ball. Otherwise the bolts cycle rather easily.
In addition to my above post, take a look at the barrel face for any crud or lacquer deposits.

[androck14]

I had this problem with a 91/30, thought it might be the lacquer so I scrubbed the heck out of some rounds with lacquer thinner and tumbled others in walnut. No joy. Works fine with brass.