Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ypsilanti, MI
    Posts
    1,527

    Default

    This one can't be straightened. Dad had someone cut it and re-weld it at an angle. Fortunately, it and the stock are the only parts that were modified. The removed parts just got lost!



    Thanks very much for the links though... I'll check them out!
    Last edited by psteinmayer; 02-10-2014 at 01:19.

  2. Default

    That is some very helpful advice. I appreciate the recommendation on the books, that is something I will definitely be checking out. I'll have to look at some gun shows here. However for some reason, in Texas gun shows are some of the highest prices you will see. Especially with the older WW2 era guns, they have ridiculous mark ups on them. Never hurts to look though. I guess I'll just keep checking the internet trying to find one. Unless one pops up on here someday which would be great.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Durand. MI.
    Posts
    6,778

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by psteinmayer View Post
    This one can't be straightened. Dad had someone cut it and re-weld it at an angle. Fortunately, it and the stock are the only parts that were modified. The removed parts just got lost!



    Thanks very much for the links though... I'll check them out!
    Very interesting safety knob on that rifle. I have only seen that style in books. Going towards the last ditch type as is the bolt knob.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ypsilanti, MI
    Posts
    1,527

    Default

    Nagoya had series 0 through 12, and this being a series 7 with S/N 62,977 places it just past halfway through the 7s, and no where near the last ditch models. All numbers are matching too! I believe these knobs started appearing at different times, depending on which arsenal you're dealing with. For Nagoya, the machined bolt knob and grooved safety should appear around 4th or 5th series.

    To be honest, I would prefer to not replace the bolt body, but rather have the handle re-cut and welded straight again... That way, I would preserve my matching numbers (unless I could find one from a different arsenal with the same number).

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by psteinmayer View Post
    Thanks Deano! Capt. Crunch, you'll find few on here with more Arisaka knowledge than Deano or Dave.

    Dave, I totally forgot about gun shows! In Michigan, we have the Antique Arms Collectors Assn. shows a few times a year. There are always Type 99s available, from early full shebang to last-ditch models... and everything in between.

    By the way, if you've never fired a 99, beware... they kick lick a (insert female dog reference here)!
    BS, a Type 99 is 7.7mm, and is slightly smaller in length than a 30-06, it kicks no harder than a 03, 1917, K98, 7.5 Swiss or any other rifle of similar size. I have several 99s, and shoot them regularly.

    http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm
    Last edited by DRAGONFLYDF; 02-15-2014 at 09:04.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Baird, Texas
    Posts
    9,753

    Default

    Capncrunch, what part of Texas are you in? I agree about gunshow prices.Lots of ignorant folks asking for the moon and old guys trying to guess what guns should be worth.

    I keep my prices reasonable and I know I have lost sales because people assume there must be something wrong with the gun because it is cheap. Nope, if I buy a $400 gun for $200 I'm selling it for $300 not $600. I have some VERY steady customers.

    A good T-99 should run you $300 in Texas. Start getting into Early ones with all the accessories and you can go $700......$1,100 on gunbroker with that insanity. I have picked up two early rifles with monopod, AA sights, dustcover and cleaning rod for $200ea at gunshows in the last year.

    As to which one you want, BE CAREFUL the damned things are addictive. There are just too many variations. I would suggest a Type38 with front sight ears as this would be correct for WW2 and would cut out the variation issues. If you get a T-99 I would suggest planning on getting 3- an Early, a Transition and a LATE war. Take your time, be patient and you can have all 3 for less than the price of a decent Garand or M1 carbine.
    I own firearms not to fight against my government, but to ensure I will not have to.

  7. Default

    Thanks Guamsst, I am in North Texas, the DFW area to be exact. Thanks for the encouragement on finding them, it gives me some sort of hope. As for the type of gun, I'm looking for an early or transition, not really wanting a last ditch. I sent you a PM by the way.

Similar Threads

  1. Sugest a source for buying oddball brass...
    By jjrothWA in forum The Reloading Bench
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 01-19-2014, 06:14
  2. Worth buying twice. PANZER COMMANDER
    By Guamsst in forum Books and Videos
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-21-2013, 07:24
  3. Buying first Mauser 98K
    By ncblksmth1 in forum Mauser Rifles
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 05-22-2010, 02:37
  4. Buying a Mauser
    By sop2510 in forum Mauser Rifles
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 04-23-2010, 07:10

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •