1883 trapdoor stock finish

[tgatley]

Hi everyone. I am in possession of an 1883 trapdoor stock that had been refinished as poorly as you can imagine. The good news is that the finish preserved all the metal parts and the stock. i now have it apart and stripped. i need to know the original finish used by Springfield. it is a shooter. Thanks.

[Dick Hosmer]

Linseed oil, raw in their case, but boiled will dry quicker. Hand rubbed, in small quantities until warm, multiple coats will be required. It's not a quick process.

[tgatley]

Thanks. I just bouight Linseed oil. Why do you boil iy first. Thom

[Dick Hosmer]

I do not know, nor am I sure that an individual can properly perform whatever the "boiling" process entails - which is probably more involved than simply heating it (to what temperature?) and allowing it to cool.

Raw will work, but sometimes (I'm guessing due to climate and/or humidity) it doesn't dry properly. Did you look at the label - perhaps what you bought has been boiled?

[tgatley]

It is raw but the directions say to use two parts paint thinner and one part linseed oil. maybe that is how they get it to dry faster. Thom

[Dick Hosmer]

You've exceeded my knowledge, sorry. Have only done one stock, many years ago, and that was with GB "Linspeed", which was (is?) largely, if not entirely, linseed oil. It worked well.

Only thing I can say is that I have never heard of adding thinner before being used on a stock.

[Dan Shapiro]

CAUTION!: No problem mixing thinner and linseed, however be advised that any rags containing such a mixture CAN spontaneously combust under the right conditions. When done, toss the rags outside in a metal container.

[glindes]

Hi everyone. I am in possession of an 1883 trapdoor stock that had been refinished as poorly as you can imagine. The good news is that the finish preserved all the metal parts and the stock. i now have it apart and stripped. i need to know the original finish used by Springfield. it is a shooter. Thanks.

Boiled will dry faster, but not fast. Grandfather used to say one coat/day/month; boiled one coat per day per week. Check the Watco Danish Oil finishes --dry fast couple of dark colors etc. Clean clean clean, prepare prepare prepare. 'Hope this helps. Geoff

[13Echo]

Linseed oil is a "drying oil", that is it polymerizes to form a plastic like film on exposure to oxygen. Linoleum is a product of polymerized linseed oil. Tung oil is another drying oil used on stocks and both are GI approved. Boiled Linseed oil from the hardware store is oil with added "dryers" that serve to catalyze the polymerization reaction. True boiled oil is oil heated in a closed iron pot to thicken it by partial polymerization. Stand oil from the artist supply store is a type of boiled linseed oil. Raw tung oil seems to do fine without all the extras but raw linseed oil can seem to take forever to "dry." Really oil soaked stocks never seem to "dry."

I do my GI stocks much like I was shown in the Army with the addition of some experience. The stripped or new stock is given a moderately thick coat of oil well rubbed in by hand with the excess wiped off after about an hour. the stock is then well rubbed with the palm and heel of the hand to generate heat to help the oil penetrate. The stock is set aside till it is DRY to touch. It should never feel sticky before adding the next coat which is another fairly heavy coat. It may take a few days a week, or longer for the stock to feel dry (depends a lot on the weather and humidity - goes faster when warm or hot). If the stock raises some grain or fuzz when wet then wet sand with oil and fine sandpaper to remove and wipe off. After 2 or maybe 3 heavy coats (no more - you do not want the stock to be soaked with oil that never has a chance to polymerize) and after the last coat is thoroughly dry to touch begin doing light coats of just a few drops well rubbed in to generate heat and let dry to touch (in hot weather may only take a day). Do multiple thin coats till you get the finish you want and maintain with light coats as necessary to maintain.

Be aware this GI finish will not fill large pores or give a gloss finish but it will give a GI correct, Drill Sergeant approved finish.

For GI stocks that only need maintenance I do it this way. A dirty stock is cleaned with half and half linseed oil and turpentine with maybe a bit of 0000 pumice on a rag. A toothbrush gets into cracks and crevasses. 0000 steel wool may be gently used for really bad spots. This is just to remove dirt and grime and if done carefully won't damage the original finish and patina. The oil is wiped off and the stock well rubbed down. Boiled oil is then used in thin coats well rubbed in to repair or refresh the finish as above. Really nasty sticky stocks soaked for years in raw linseed oil and gun oil may need to be stripped.

[M2Phil]

Linseed oil is a "drying oil", that is it polymerizes to form a plastic like film on exposure to oxygen. Linoleum is a product of polymerized linseed oil. Tung oil is another drying oil used on stocks and both are GI approved. Boiled Linseed oil from the hardware store is oil with added "dryers" that serve to catalyze the polymerization reaction. True boiled oil is oil heated in a closed iron pot to thicken it by partial polymerization. Stand oil from the artist supply store is a type of boiled linseed oil. Raw tung oil seems to do fine without all the extras but raw linseed oil can seem to take forever to "dry." Really oil soaked stocks never seem to "dry."

I do my GI stocks much like I was shown in the Army with the addition of some experience. The stripped or new stock is given a moderately thick coat of oil well rubbed in by hand with the excess wiped off after about an hour. the stock is then well rubbed with the palm and heel of the hand to generate heat to help the oil penetrate. The stock is set aside till it is DRY to touch. It should never feel sticky before adding the next coat which is another fairly heavy coat. It may take a few days a week, or longer for the stock to feel dry (depends a lot on the weather and humidity - goes faster when warm or hot). If the stock raises some grain or fuzz when wet then wet sand with oil and fine sandpaper to remove and wipe off. After 2 or maybe 3 heavy coats (no more - you do not want the stock to be soaked with oil that never has a chance to polymerize) and after the last coat is thoroughly dry to touch begin doing light coats of just a few drops well rubbed in to generate heat and let dry to touch (in hot weather may only take a day). Do multiple thin coats till you get the finish you want and maintain with light coats as necessary to maintain.

Be aware this GI finish will not fill large pores or give a gloss finish but it will give a GI correct, Drill Sergeant approved finish.

For GI stocks that only need maintenance I do it this way. A dirty stock is cleaned with half and half linseed oil and turpentine with maybe a bit of 0000 pumice on a rag. A toothbrush gets into cracks and crevasses. 0000 steel wool may be gently used for really bad spots. This is just to remove dirt and grime and if done carefully won't damage the original finish and patina. The oil is wiped off and the stock well rubbed down. Boiled oil is then used in thin coats well rubbed in to repair or refresh the finish as above. Really nasty sticky stocks soaked for years in raw linseed oil and gun oil may need to be stripped.

Some great advice there, Charts-N-Darts!