Remington vs. Springfield 1903

[Fred]

Very fair and I am rushing into it. I want to buy a 1903 to have a 1903 and to shoot it. I'm in the Army and I love the history behind the weapons and want to buy them before they become harder to find and more expensive. For that reason I am kinda rushing into it. For that matter what resources/books/articles should I read to start getting a good handle on the rifle?

Your last post indicated that you were wondering about what resources, books, articles etc. to read up on the subject. One of the best resources you have available to you is This Site because you won't have to pay anything for it. I'm not recommending that you buy anything in the way of books or literature if you don't have any money to spare. You asked about it, so I gave you some titles. Start going on line and after selecting an interesting type of firearm, use that as a reference and bring it to the attention of the collectors on this forum. You'll get some good information and it wont cost you a cent.

[11aaguilar]

Ok this was all outstanding advice I appreciate it. I do want to learn more however and get into some books because down the road I would like to buy more collectable, rare variations when my income is higher. We had a historic weapons shoot through the Army and were able to shoot a M1903A4 with scope (I couldn't tell you if it was original at the time) but it was just awesome and I loved how it shot. Right now however I'm just looking for something I can shoot, and once I learn more down the road get something more historic that might just sit in the safe. The one concern I have now is I can't tell the difference between a good bore and a bad one. I have several new firearms in my safe and they're all shiny, and I have a Mosin-Nagant M44 but the bore looks damn near the same to me. I tried to find pictures online comparing an eroded, pitted bore with a new one but didn't really find anything. I know a bad one will look dull but I don't know if my M44 just has a good bore or if it's me that can't tell the difference.

[JimF]

. . . . I tried to find pictures online comparing an eroded, pitted bore with a new one but didn't really find anything. I know a bad one will look dull but I don't know if my M44 just has a good bore or if it's me that can't tell the difference.

I suggest you acquire an Optivisor to look down the bore . . . .

Even if you have good vision, this device will allow you to see the "nooks and crannies" and yet allow your hands to be free of holding a glass. --Jim

[kcw]

Ok this was all outstanding advice I appreciate it. I do want to learn more however and get into some books because down the road I would like to buy more collectable, rare variations when my income is higher. We had a historic weapons shoot through the Army and were able to shoot a M1903A4 with scope (I couldn't tell you if it was original at the time) but it was just awesome and I loved how it shot. Right now however I'm just looking for something I can shoot, and once I learn more down the road get something more historic that might just sit in the safe. The one concern I have now is I can't tell the difference between a good bore and a bad one. I have several new firearms in my safe and they're all shiny, and I have a Mosin-Nagant M44 but the bore looks damn near the same to me. I tried to find pictures online comparing an eroded, pitted bore with a new one but didn't really find anything. I know a bad one will look dull but I don't know if my M44 just has a good bore or if it's me that can't tell the difference.

If you look, really LOOK, down the barrel of rifle which you know to be "as new" with a bore lite (not so bright as to blind you) you'll note how squared/sharp the edges of the rifling is, how smooth the metal surfaces appear. Once well familiar with what an excellent bore should look like, you'll quickly detect imperfections in barrels made rough, pitted or frosted by the failure to properly clean up after corrosive primer ammo has been used. Worn barrels on the other hand may have no rough aspects about them. If they've been properly cleaned there'll be no pits, however after several thousand rounds the square/sharp edges of the rifling have been decidedly rounded off. This in itself does not make a bad barrel. Many barrels in that condition are in the prime of their lives as regards accuracy. Of primary concern in such barrels is the issue of throat wear (erosion) at the front end of the chamber (gauge required) and possible cleaning rod wear at the muzzle. A gauge can be used at the muzzle, and then of course there's always the old "bullet test". A friend of mine purchased one the "Russian Capture" WWII 98K's which appeared to have an excellent bore and muzzle. The muzzle passed his "bullet test" with flying colors however bullets fired from the gun "keyholed" @ 25 yds! The problem was throat wear! Apparently the gun had been fired so rapidly that the 1st 3/4" of rifling just ahead of the chamber had been burnt/erroded away! If he had a throat gauge in 8x57 the problem would have been obvious. We determined the problem have dropping bullets down the chamber and then measuring. Fortunately he was able to exchange the gun. I can only imagine the terror experienced by the German soldier who was so scared that he felt the need to fire his weapon so quickly that it heated to the point of causing that damage!

[Darreld Walton]

11aaguilar, if you're looking for primarily a shooter, think long and hard about an A3. Really.
The rear sight, while not as finely adjustable as the 1903 models, is still more than adequate, is closer to the eye, making for a longer sight plane, is an aperture, which is easier to use accurately, and the rifles seem to be in much better shape overall, and, easier to acquire these days for sometimes a good deal less money than a 1903 model. Do not worry one whit about a two groove barrel, they shoot better than most shooters are capable of anyway. Put one into a scant or a "C" type stock with good bedding, and you have a very good 'shooter'.