Bad News, No. 4, Mk I

[mikld]

Well, I took the advise given me and purchased a coin type "field" headspace gauge. The bolt easily closes on the gauge . I open the bolt, cleaned the bolt face, wiped any excess oil from the gauge, place gauge on bolt face, gently close bolt. I guess I just got excited about a new shooter for my collection (I spent 4 days cleaning the action, stock, and barrel, and purchased a box or ammo, $32.00+, a gauge, and did some reading/research.). Oh well.

I only paid $79.00 for it back when and don't want to invest in another barrel or have the present barrel "set back". So, she goes back in the cabinet...

[budster]

Look at the bolt head.
There should be numbers of 0-3. Sometimes you can get another head with the next number up. This will tighten up the head space. Also, in years past, some gunsmiths have slightly peened the bolt (not the bolt head) around the area where the bolt head tightens up against the bolt moving metal toward the bolt head to take up the slack.

[M1Garandy]

What are the specs on the field gauge you purchased? Not all .303 British field gauges are created equal.

[George in NH]

Since I do not know, I will pose my comment as a question. What is the proper procedure to check headspace on this series of rifles? As in removing the extractor and/or the firing parts of the bolt?
George in NH

[Parashooter]

1. Remove extractor, spring, and screw from bolt head. (Optional, but saves novices from mistaking extractor spring resistance for gauge resistance.)
2. If gauge doesn't have a central hole to clear firing pin, make one.
3. Hold back trigger so mainspring doesn't compress during closing.
4. Open and close bolt several times, slowly, to observe and remember normal resistance with no gauge present.
5. With muzzle down, place gauge in/on chamber (coin-type gauges don't really go in the chamber).
6. Hold back trigger and attempt to close bolt, stopping when encountering any resistance greater than when gauge was absent.
7. If bolt rotation shows any incremental resistance before fully closed on a .074" gauge, headspace is acceptable for service use.

For more information, see http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearm...101-for-30339s

[mikld]

Oakie headspace gauge measures .074". Bolt head markings are "S", flaming bomb, and number "2". Bolt head is loose in bolt, as in not screwed in tight (might go 1/4 turn more), and I guessed this is to allow bolt head to turn to remove bolt from receiver. Numbers on bolt handle match rifle's serial number.

[budster]

You need a #3 Bolt Head and it is supposed to be tightening up at about 15 deg BTC and not be sloppy...The .303 Brit Hd Spaces on the rim of the case.
IIRC, The S marked bolt head is the longest
See if https://www.gunpartscorp.com/ has a bolt head.
And...here is a thread to read to educate you http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearm...1#.Uovh9imA3IU

[Detroit-1]

just getting a number 3 bolthead might or might not help you! You have to measure the length of the bolthead you have and then get a longer one! Then it has to index right! I can't believe any gunsmith, who knows Enfields, would ever peen over a bolt to correct head space! That is just nuts! Oh and just becauce a bolthead is marked #3 does not make it always longer! A S marked bolthead is a Savage bolthead! Go to Gun Boards Forum under Enfields for the truth.

[SMOKEY]

Try Privi Partizan ammo for around $15 a box. Shoots real fine. If looking for parts try Liberty Tree Collectors. They have a fair selection. Most are fairly priced, some pricey too.

[JB White]

Another thing to keep in mind that 0.074 was determined to keep a combat rifle operating smoothly in the field. The HS might be a little loose but that doesn't mean the rifle will explode on firing. You just won't be able to safely reload the overstretched brass with confidence. During wartime, the emergency spec was .084 and they served well enough then.

Yet another thing.....HS increases over time while the rifle is being used. There is more to it than simply replacing a bolthead to tighten things up. The actual problem could still be lurking elsewhere while the new bolthead only masks the numbers. I have a NOS unused #3 bolthead in my spares box for "just in case". After at least 15+ years I still haven't found a case which would justify its use.
The numbered boltheads were originally devised as a labor saving device at the factory when the headspace was being set for the very first time. Cut down on the stoning it took a skilled craftsman to do when the work was being done by semi-skilled personell. Armorers who used the spare boltheads later did so with a plethoria of proper tools/gauges and a pool of experience at their disposal.

That having been said...I know of several instances where common 0 and 1 boltheads were installed prior to selling in order to glean a few more bucks later on the scarce #3 and later on, #2 boltheads which were already in the rifle. Not that I did it mind you! I never sold a rifle which didn't check out and that I hadn't used myself.