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  1. #11

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    Thanks for all the good information. I picked up the rifle today, and being my first enfield, I am quite unfamiliar with it. It's a neat rifle, and I look forward to lugging it out with my springfield to the range.
    One more question. What about a good handload for it. I shoot out to 400 yards, and want accuracy, not hunting loads. What do you all use?

  2. #12

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    The boiling water helps to loosen the crud a little better and it flash dries the barrel so rust doesn't start, or so goes what 'they' say. Others claim Windex straight from the bottle while the barrel is still hot/very warm from shooting works wonders. Haven't heard of any complaints or bad reports so it must do the trick.

    I'm a transmission funnel and hot water type. Same way I clean my black powder guns. Then swab it dry before I follow up with Hoppes and Break Free. Give it a few days and run another few solvent and oiled patches through just to be sure. I haven't complained nor given a bad report. Whatever does the trick and whatever you have confidence in is all that matters. You do need water to disolve and flush the salts so don't skip that step.
    2016 Chicago Cubs. MLB Champions!


    **Never quite as old as the other old farts**

  3. #13

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    AGAIN!, the microscopic cracks in EVERY barrel are where the salt is, The hot water expands those cracks and washes out the salt.

    The ammonia in Windex does NOTHING

  4. #14

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    Not just the craze cracks but the surface in general also retains corrosive/hygroscopic elements. The Windex guys, (who some think the ammonia does the trick) aren't that far off.
    The ammonia/water mix is a cleaning solvent so it helps remove the soft fouling. It's the water carrier in Windex that does what we need it to do. For those who wish to do an initial cleaning at the range before heading home, Windex makes a convenient spray bottle to take along. I think that's the real reason for its popularity. That's why it works "better" on a still-warm barrel.
    2016 Chicago Cubs. MLB Champions!


    **Never quite as old as the other old farts**

  5. #15

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    After looking at that ammo for a while, I decided not to shoot it. Not because of the primers, but because it had made it 70 years in it's original box. I just couldn't blow it down range. I put it in my gun case where I can look at it and think, man, that's older than I am. (not by much, and in better shape.) I ordered 100 new brass and am looking for bullets. That will do.

  6. #16

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    A bit late now, but Dillon sells a tool for reforming those crimped primer pockets. Works with both large and small primers.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Eastern Missouri
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    11,835

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    I shoot a lot of corrosive in my bolt guns. I keep a small bottle of Windex with extra amonia, oil bottle and cleaning kit in my range box. After the last shot is fired and the barrel is very warm I clean and oil it. Have not had any rust problems.

  8. #18

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    Just keep in mind that when the rifle was in service, it NEVER shot anything but corrosive primed ammo.
    I shot some Mk6 .303 but I stopped because of it's collector value. only one misfire in the bunch

  9. #19

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    You guys are a wealth of information. Thanks, Tom

  10. #20

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    Do not forget that if you ever do shoot corr. ammo, wash out the cases also with hot soap an water. But you only need to do this if you plan on useing the cases in reloading.
    Last edited by mike24d20; 05-17-2013 at 10:58. Reason: info added
    AIM TRUE, YOU MIGHT HIT THE TARGET:

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