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  1. Default Putting together a compact reloading kit

    Not a brand new idea by a long shot, but I figured if I was to reload for a revolver at the range I could very likely put together an "outdoor" reloader kit

    All I'd need is the Lee hand press with ram prime and 2 dies.
    A bottle of 500-1,000grs of preferred powder, a small waterproof container for primers (100 pcs minimum) and a box of lead/jacketted projectiles.
    Powder scoop with a pre-determinted powder charge.

    Optional case rack, digital caliper (or anything that would indicate OAL) and case lube.

    Im only missing the ram prime unit from this list, but could very well just bring the Lee hand prime.


    I figure, it's good to practice a little of that survivalist mindset. This set up wouldnt take up much room in a rucksack and it can be used anywhere where its not wet.

  2. #2

    Default

    If you are thinking survivalist, take a .22. No reloading and you can carry a lot of ammo in place of a reloading kit. My field gun is a S&W Model 43 Air Weight Kit Gun that weighs in at less than a pound.

  3. Default

    You're not thinking of dumping the primers loose into a container are you?

  4. Default

    No, they'll still be in the trays in a tin box.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Eastern Missouri
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    11,835

    Default

    Get a maximum length case gauge for the caliber your loading and forget the digital caliper. I don't use case lube on pistol cases anyway.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Yuma , Arizona
    Posts
    1,492

    Default

    Don't forget a soup sized can with a screw on lid . Fill it mostly with walnut hulls and shake it for a few hours to polish the brass. Don't want to scratch up those dies.
    Chris

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Eastern Missouri
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    Default

    I have put together a loading kit for the range to test loads. I have a Loc & Load press that I can mount to a wood platform that also holds my powder drop. I have some big C clamps to mount it to a range table. My Dillon electronic scale is battery powered so I can weigh charges. I'll take prep'ed primed cases and some powder and my chrono so I'm set,

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Remote Utah desert west of Salt Lake City.
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Case holder is not optional, in my experience. You can move up to 50 cases out of the way if necessary in one motion. Also keeps cases from tipping and spilling, and makes it easier to organize which cases got charged with powder, and which did not. I wouldn't forego it.

    Don't forget a powder funnel. Even a light wind can blow up to a grain of powder away from the case neck while pouring, depending on the powder.

    Can of lighter fluid and rag to degrease ammo after it's assembled. Lighter fluid evaporates without leaving anything behind, so it's perfect for degreasing ammo with a couple of squirts on a rag. Also good for degreasing sights, screws, small parts, chambers, etc. My shooting bag always has a can of it. The flip-top squirter makes it efficient and accurate to apply, to rag or tight spaces in a gun action.

    Notebook and pens, to record your loads and experiences. Record without fail. This will eliminate much head-scratching later.

    A kinetic bullet puller is not out of place. If you seat a bullet too deep while adjusting your die, it can be mighty handy.

    Unless it's carbide dies, use lubricant. You're courting a stuck case if you don't. Lee Case Lubricant in a tube is inexpensive and goes a long way.

    I used the Lee Hand Press for the first time when I had one sent to my brother's, out of state. I was iimpressed with how well it worked. A very good product. I still have the Decker Hand Press I bought new in 1977, but it was too heavy to bring on the plane. The Decker is a fine piece of equipment, though. I think it's still made.

    Case trimmer and chamfer tool. The Lee wins hands-down here. Buy the cutter with the big wooden ball handle, and the lock stud with the 1/4" projecting stud to chuck into a cordless drill. So equipped, you can trim and chamfer 50 cases in a few minutes.

    Calipers are handier than a case length gauge, especially since you should also record overall case length.

    Just because you're reloading at the range doesn't mean you should forego procedures or take shortcuts. At the range, especially, you want the most accurate loads you can make. Make shoddy ammo and you may affect the accuracy of a certain load and overlook it.

    I've assembled quality pistol ammo on a folding table in the very remote Utah desert, so far from anyone that hours passed before a vehicle could be heard in the distance. Far from any cell phone connection.
    The biggest problem I had was being able to look down a .38 Special case in strong sunlight to check powder level. In such strong light, it's difficult to tell an overcharge. Solved it by sitting in the Gatmobile and using a penlight, to escape the overpowering sunlight. Even the shade of a large umbrella didn't reduce light enough.

    If I can assemble top-grade ammo under such circumstances, you should be able to do as well or better at any city range.
    "A vast desert. Galena in flight. Smoke. Brimstone. Holes in parchment. The ugly cat is much amused."
    -- The Quantrains of Gatodamus (1503-1566)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Eastern Missouri
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    Default

    Why take the trouble of preping cases at the range? Easier to do you prep and priming at home and take cases to be loaded.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    mid Missouri
    Posts
    10,141

    Default

    take lil Dillon 550B with you & scales............... it ain't dat big & produces damm good loads.
    be safe, enjoy life, journey well
    da gimp
    OFC, Mo. Chapter

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