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  1. Default

    Thank you.

    jt

    PS
    I do empty it on occasion, when I am not carving on a stock.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    mid Missouri
    Posts
    10,141

    Default

    are you going to lower a lil wood from either side of the bolt release?, might make it handier to access..........

    an ivory bead shows up well in bad light too............
    be safe, enjoy life, journey well
    da gimp
    OFC, Mo. Chapter

  3. Default I Agree

    Quote Originally Posted by da gimp View Post
    are you going to lower a lil wood from either side of the bolt release?, might make it handier to access..........

    an ivory bead shows up well in bad light too............
    Yes, I will lower the wood all around. When I start inletting, I just go straight down. I trim to fit later. I have been working on the grip and cheekpiece today. I finally got them both where I wanted them.

    I wish I had an ivory bead. I like their looks and they work so well. I may opt for the translucent green or red ones. I have a couple on some old non-scoped rifles, and they are outstanding in all light, particularly dim light. The ivory bead is a class act though, and if I had one I would use it.

    This is the grip and cheekpiece as they are now. I will carve the cheekpiece to give it that sculptured look. You would think it would be hard to do, but actually, with a Dremel tool and a rough cut square file, I can whip one out in a jiffy. If you look at the pictures below, you can tell I have removed a lot of wood from the cheekpiece, reducing it in both height and thickness.

    I have reduced the grip from 5 3/4" diameter to 4 5/8" in diameter. The grip cap (steel) is a sacrificial cap. The final cap will be a heavier steel one. I also moved the grip tip back about 3/8" to get my finger on the trigger correctly. The grip shape lends itself to checkering in a nice way. I only hope I can do a decent job of checkering. Sometimes my jobs look like they were done by a drunk pig on ice skates. I hope to do better.

    I am concerned about lack of weight. The rifle as it is weighs a little over 8 lbs, and my goal is 10 lbs. I may have to add some lead to the stock. I am also concerned about the LOP to get my thumb off my nose. I am a scope crawler big time. That won't get it with this puppy. If I crawl this stock, I will be smiling out my ear.

    It is coming together, as it is time for glass bedding and crossbolts now. I still haven't received my loading dies, which is beginning to irritate me, but I can do other things in the mean time. One thing I need to do is finish my CAD drawing of a new digestion facility I am designing. Never a dull moment.

    jt
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. Default Where the Rubber Meets the Road

    I said I could create a sculptured cheekpiece quickly, so I decided to time myself. It took me 1 1/2 hours to go from what I posted this morning to what you see below. It was actually entertaining in a way. Once you can visualize what the rifle will look like, it gets to be fun.

    I ordered a Pachmayr D550 Decelerator Trap Pad ($39.99, grind to fit, black, trap profile, pigeon face), the barrel swivel band ($28.99), and re-ordered another set of dies ($32.99) from Midway today. I hope that Pachmayr is as good as they claim.

    Tools used:
    big rat tailed file
    coarse square file
    hand sander
    3/8" chisel

    Cost: $114.12 - parts

    jt
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Marine A5 Sniper Rifle; 08-13-2011 at 06:43.

  5. Default Good Grief!!

    I don't think I will be checkering this rifle. I am so bad at checkering, and I try so hard to master the craft, I must be bewitched. I decided to practice on another rifle. I just finished checkering a grip panel on that rifle, and it looks like something the cat drug up. I suck at checkering. Anyone know someone on the forum who checkers stocks?

    Emri, do you know anyone? Someone needs to profit off my inability to run straight lines.

    Just to be humble, I will post pictures of my checkering job tomorrow sometime. I thought it would look better in the morning, but I was wrong. I haven't made any attempt to clean up the over-runs, etc. Good grief.

    Mercy.

    Tools:
    a bunch of expensive checkering tools

    Cost:
    self respect

    Jim
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Marine A5 Sniper Rifle; 08-15-2011 at 07:03.

  6. Default Cleaned Up

    The job looks better after I cleaned it up, but it still sucks. I will do the other side of the grip tonight.

    jt
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    Last edited by Marine A5 Sniper Rifle; 08-15-2011 at 11:42.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    mid Missouri
    Posts
    10,141

    Default

    we live about an hour north of Gary wnnig, & the old Fajen craftsmen, you might consider calling him & asking for a name from him. We got spoiled with Bishop & Fajen being so close to us.

    Have an old post WW Steyer Mauser 98 commercial rifle, in .30-06 with a long slide Lyman peep rear & a gold bead front & double set triggers, (built for a US military officer stationed there), it has the small shadow line German/Austrian cheekpiece that is comfortable to shoot.Even when he was a young officer, Bob had daam good taste in rifles, they made him a standard style stock instead of the Mannlicher full length, you can still see the trace of the nose cap of the 1st stock @ the front sight.
    be safe, enjoy life, journey well
    da gimp
    OFC, Mo. Chapter

  8. Default

    Sounds like a nice rifle. I have a M1917 that was sporterized for an officer in Asia, and the style is a bit weird. The wood is a real mystery, as it is white (stained red) and pretty soft. The rifle itself is accurate and fun to shoot, but the checkering is the English flat style. I like the old rifles.

    jt

  9. Default A Real John Rigby 98 Mauser 416 Rigby

    John Rigby didn't make many 416 Rigby's on the standard 98 Mauser receiver (49 or 69), but I managed to locate pictures of one of them (not Harry Selby's). The first thing I noticed was I planned to make my receiver cut exactly where John Rigby made his, which was reassuring. The second thing I noticed, and hard to see in the pictures, is he made an elongated magazine, which I will not do. Considering this is a $20,000 rifle, it is very utilitarian. My plan to use the standard Mauser safety was valid, as well as my sights, which are remarkably similar to the original.

    I located my Cape Buffalo horn block, which will become my forearm tip, which this rifle doesn't have. In the box the block came in is a small square of horn to be used for a grip cap. This I may do by epoxying it onto the grip. I have decided to use this stock, if for no other reason than it fits me so well as it is. I will be glass bedding it this week, if my bedding kits haven't solidified. I will be putting in the crossbolt tomorrow. My dies arrive Thursday, so the "fire in the hole test" will be Friday or Saturday. My Pachmayer recoil compensator also arrives in the same package. They sent the swivel band by USPO for some odd reason and I have no idea when it will arrive.

    I inletted the bolt into the stock today, and I may leave it at its present length. It may be more handy as it is.

    Below are pictures of the real Rigby rifle.

    jt
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Marine A5 Sniper Rifle; 08-16-2011 at 09:27.

  10. Cool Crossbolt Installation & Glass Bedding

    I will use two posts to get all the pictures in.

    My first problem was the crossbolt, which is absolutely necessary for a rifle that has recoil of this magnitude. I had some old Springfield crossbolts I wanted to use, which would certainly be sufficient for the job. Some quick measurements demonstrated that they would fit, if I could get every detail correct. The crossbolt will be recessed so I can add a wood plug over it (it isn't coming out in my lifetime). I needed to recess the heads, but the recess had to be very exact to allow the serrated head of the crossbolt to engage its serrations sufficient to tighten it up.

    I had no such tool, but what I did have was a sling swivel installation tool that recessed the rear stud into the stock. Once again, quick measurements showed I could reduce the OD of the swivel tool recess cutter slightly (0.011"), and it would work perfectly. I chucked the tool in a drill and using a file, I reduced the OD by 0-011" exactly. Holding my breathe, I drilled the hole, but the bit didn't completely penetrate the width of the stock. I had to use an extra long bit, which I happened to have, to drill the hole completely through. I slowly cut the recess for the crossbolt heads on both sides, inserting the crossbolt occasionally to check fit, until it was perfect. Using a screwdriver in which I had cut a slot to fit the crossbolt nut, I tightened it down until it was perfect.

    Sounds good, heh? Well...I messed up by drilling the hole through a section of the stock that will be hollow inside for the lengthened magazine. I will have to move it forward 7/16". I will have two side by side wood inlays when I finish. How soon did I notice my mistake? Immediately after I tightened the crossbolt nut and leaned back to admire my brilliant, but flawed work. Oh well, it will be hard to see, and hurts nothing as I will fill the small round hole with epoxy.

    In the pictures below, you can see the tools I used except for the drill and file. Note what appears to be a wooden block and a corresponding square wooden disc. These are the Cape Buffalo horn I bought from a nice gentleman in St. Louis who realized his horns were worth a lot of money if he sawed them up and sold them piece by piece. I will install the square block as a forearm tip at a later date. I will show you a neat trick on how to install it with dowels that actually line up.

    Glass bedding is covered in the next post.

    Tools used:
    drill
    extra long drill bit
    big rat tailed file
    10" Mill Bastard file
    sling swivel stud installation tool
    slotted screwdriver
    vernier caliper

    Cost
    $0.00

    Semper Fi,
    jt
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Marine A5 Sniper Rifle; 08-18-2011 at 10:38.

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