Reproducing Harry Selby's 416 Rigby

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

I acquired a brand-new, never fired take-off CZ 550 416 Rigby barrel, and I was at a loss as to what to do with it. I dug through my stash of receivers and found a stripped VZ.24 receiver & bolt with a hinged floor plate and a complete M1917 receiver already machined for long rounds. Since the 550's barrel thread wasn't going to accommodate the M1917 without a silver soldered bushing, I decided to try to reproduce my version of Harry Selbey's 416 Rigby as built by John Rigby.

Before I get a dozen "nutty idea" posts, I have the time and the ability to do the job, and almost 100% of the parts, and I always wanted one. I will make the stock from scratch as this will be an iron sighted rifle, with express sights already on the barrel, and I will need less drop than has a scoped rifle.

I also thought I would do a pictorial of the entire job for posterity. Anyone interested in looking at such a project? I would post the pictures once a week or so, maybe every two weeks if I am busy with other endeavors.

I have already started fitting the barrel to the receiver, which was a bit of a trick, since the CZ 550 thread is M26x2sp3 and the VZ.24 receiver thread is 1.1x12 tpi. I made two AutoCAD drawings and overlaid them to see the degree of interference, and decided I could fit the two by using valve grinding compound to exact-fit them (no lathe required). The CZ 550 has 7-8 threads, and I have engaged 5 threads of the two already - three to go. It started raining cats and dogs and I decided to quit for the day. So far I have expended a little over one hour fitting the barrel to the receiver.

If this is the wrong place or no one has any interest in such a project, I will just fade away quietly. Let me know.

I am looking forward to test firing the beast.

jt

[older than dirt]

Yes I would be interested in looking at your progress weekly or so. Good luck with it.

[RCS]

Jim, Check my post on the M1917 forum showing the Maynard Buehler 505 Gibbs conversion of the Enfield. RCS

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

Wow, what a shoulder blaster that sucker has to be.

jt

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

I finished fitting the barrel today. Now to open up the bolt face - time to crank up the old lathe. I'll take a few pics and post them later tonight.

jt

[Emri]

I will make the stock from scratch as this will be an iron sighted rifle, with express sights already on the barrel, and I will need less drop than has a scoped rifle.

I also thought I would do a pictorial of the entire job for posterity. Anyone interested in looking at such a project?

If this is the wrong place or no one has any interest in such a project, I will just fade away quietly. Let me know.



jt

Sure Jim !! Would love to see pics of your project. Since this is the Mauser forum, it seems to be the place to do it since you are using a Mauser action. As far as the stock dimensions go, I think you got it backwards. For iron sights only you need more drop. Scopes sit high on the reciever and have less drop. But why don't you get a G&H side mount or some claw mounts and put a nice vintage 2.5X Zeiss or similar scope on it ??

Later,

Emri

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

I want very little drop to make the recoiling rifle come straight back. Those Weatherby style stocks tend to make the barrel rise which creates greater felt recoil. I will install some kind of compensator in the stock to further reduce felt recoil. I am also going to epoxy a steel pin through the wrist and add a weight in the buttstock. I am going to stick with the iron sights, as a scope into the brow with a 416 Rigby is one chance I don't want to take. I ordered some bullets last night for test firing. I am trying to decide if I want to Blue Pill the puppy, and if so, what Blue Pill to use. The only real issues I have are the right side cut into the front receiver ring, and making the box magazine that will hold three rounds and still feed properly. I was making some preliminary measurements last night, and it appears I have to extend the box back AND forward, and most likely make a longer follower. I will probably weld the floorplate onto the box. I will only get one shot at those rails, so I want everything mechanically completed prior to starting that job.

jt

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

After fitting the barrel, I discovered the CZ 550 receiver ring is 0.050" longer than the VZ.24. I had a gap between the barrel and the receiver. I bugged out down to the Burgaw Milling feed store and bought a 0.050" thick 1" machine washer that almost went over the barrel threads. Put it in a vise and ran around the inner circumference a few times and she screwed onto the barrel threads. Screwed on the receiver (torqued to 70 ft-lbs) and it was a perfect fit. Ground down the excess washer flush with the receiver and just finished the 220 grit polish. She looks great!

I ordered a set of Lyman dies and 50-350 gr hard cast RN bullets today (Total of about $60.00, which gives me a total monetary investment to date of $150).

Tools used so far are:
1. Big table vise
2. Dremel tool with grinder
3. 10" Mill bastard file
4. 12" cheater to screw receiver onto barrel
5. 1 sheet 220 grit wet or dry sandpaper
6. Valve lapping grit mixture

Left to do:
1. Open up bolt face
2. Build magazine box/floorplate
3. Make a stock and fit/checker/finish
4. Glass bed receiver and barrel lug
5. Rust blue all metal parts including bolt (I like black bolts)
6. Odds and ends
7. Open rails and receiver to accept and feed a 3.720" 416 Rigby round
8. Order a bolt stop/release for a 98 Mauser (mine is missing)
9. Install Timney trigger w/o safety (on hand)

Any questions? Comments are welcomed, good or bad. Feel free.

Pics are before and after 220 grit polish.

jt

PS
I accidentally added two photos that have nothing to do with this post. Sorry about that.

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

OK, I am planning on using a barrel band sling swivel, most likely the Talley (below - on list of items to be ordered, which is very short). That requires removing the front sight ramp. Does anyone know what type of solder is used to solder the CZ 550 front sight ramp? If it is silver soldered on, I will solder a split band onto the barrel versus a full band, and not remove the front sight ramp at all. The latter was the technique used by Rigby if I am not mistaken, but I intend to soft solder the band to the barrel.

I also plan to use one of the older Timney triggers designed for the M1917. I prefer these triggers over anything offered today. It has no safety, but that is OK because I will use the standard Mauser flip safety since I won't be mounting a scope. It is handy and quick and positive and time proven.

I plan to cut off the bolt handle, straighten it, and weld it back on upside down. I want it to be at the same angle and length as the Model 70 bolts, but have the larger knob of the Mauser military rifles.

I have been looking at the standard Mauser floor plate, and it appears I will move the rear wall back the thickness of the current wall, and the front wall I will cut off and stub on a new front wall with short side walls such that a 3.720" OAL round will fit with a minimum of 0.010" clearance. This will allow me to not alter the rear of the receiver magazine opening, and have all metal removal at the front, which will result in a rather short ramp. The ramp angle will be determined by how well the rounds feed, which means the magazine must be made first before the ramp is angled, although I can go ahead and remove the metal that must go to allow the round to exit the magazine box. Removing metal behind where the lower bolt lug locks up gives me pause, so I will ensure that not a sliver of metal will be removed other than that required to feed the round. I will have to make a new floorplate, which I will hinge with a positive lock. I will convert a standard Mauser floor plate I have in my parts box.

I have been giving the stock a lot of thought, and I am thinking of having maybe 1.5" drop at the front and 2.5" at the back. The grip circumference will be determined by the size of my hand, which will be around 4.5". I will alter the grip to place my trigger finger pad on the trigger with no muscle strain, and I prefer a more closed grip than usually seen on these rifles, with blued steel grip cap. The grip will be reinforced with a steel rod. LOP will be 12 1/4", which is my usual fit, but I will check before I cut. Stock balance will be in the middle of the receiver ring, or about 6" in front of the trigger. The forearm will be 8" long (from end of floorplate), round with melded rails and a horn round tip. It will be checkered in a classic style (I really suck at checkering). I plan on making a recoil compensator system consisting of a lead filled cylinder suspended between two valve springs in a hole drilled into the buttstock in front of a 1" compensator rubber pad (English style). A slight cheek pad in classic style will adorn the buttstock. Cant will fit my shoulder muscle hollow, and offset will be determined by my exact line of sight in an unstrained offhand position, and if done properly, offset can reduce felt recoil significantly. I will have at least 4" between the front edge of the upper comb and me right thumb when my finger is on the trigger to help prevent "thumb nose" from the heavy recoil. Total weight of rifle empty will be 10 lbs, and maybe 11 lbs.

Rigby made only a few 416 Rigbys on standard length Mausers, and I had never seen one until recently. I was surprised at how little had to be altered. Remember, the Rigby was designed to be a 43,000 psi round, although I will test to 55,000 psi based on my calculations. I do not anticipate encountering any strength issues whatsoever.

Right now I am stalled on opening up the bolt face because my 3-phase lathe that runs on 110 single phase is down due to a dead capacitor. I may resort to a nearby machine shop. I am eager to test fire it no later than next week. I will use the tried and true "tied to a tire and a long trigger string" method, and I intend to video tape the test. I am sure I will wince when I dump 90 grains of powder into each case. She will not be cheap to shoot, but it will be fun.

Comments welcomed, also any questions.

jt

[da gimp]

Have you considered a Mod 70 style safety? Double recoil lugged into the stock? My thought is to go with the spit forward sling ring, no chance that way of the front sight being canted, IF you like the current front sight. If not, a gold bead or ivory front sight are pretty & have an added benefit in low light on a dangerous game rifle.