Stuck Trapdoor Firing Pin

Hey all, copying my post here from the trapdoor bulletin board.

Got a decent condition trapdoor over the weekend, with two issues. First is its missing the cam latch spring. Second, the firing pin is stuck in the forward position. I've been soaking it in penetrating oil all weekend, but its seems well and stuck in there. I have tried tapping the protruding section of the pin on a wood block, and a few light taps with a nylon hammer. It seems firmly stuck in place. I will note that on the section protruding form the bolt face side, does have some play in it, but otherwise it seems firmly rusted in place. Is there any hope to remove this At this point, I'm willing to accept help, I am not much of a gunsmith and I fear damaging the gun more than necessary. I called some local shops and they are unwilling to work anything other than modern guns or ARs. I have the gun currently dissembled and the block detached. I am willing to listen to any advice anyone has to offer. Thanks

Got some good suggestions, its soaking now in some penetrating oil, its seems to be making some progress, or at least, it feels like I can see more into the block from the rear. Maybe its just wishful thinking? I promised pictures, so here they are. I am on day 2 of the big soak.

Attachment 49312Attachment 49313

Haven?t used this maneuver on a trapdoor firing pin before, but concept is the same. With the block out you can tap the rear of the block on a piece of wood, pine works best for me. You may have to hit it pretty hard but the repeated impact should loosen the pin and force it out the back of the block.

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Haven?t used this maneuver on a trapdoor firing pin before, but concept is the same. With the block out you can tap the rear of the block on a piece of wood, pine works best for me. You may have to hit it pretty hard but the repeated impact should loosen the pin and force it out the back of the block.

Evilbunny . . . .

I just know, you’ve removed he fire-pin retaining screw . . . .right?

About a fifty percent chance of it being removed. I have seen heat oil and long term soaking used and a couple were still stuck fast. When all fals fails a block and pin can be found on line.

If you're getting play at one and not the other, you have a broken pin. May not make the situation worse, but it cannot make it better as there is now a cushion of sorts if you try to drive it out from the front. The inertia method above might do the trick, but also needle files as per the TCC forum. Blocks and pins are widely available at a modest price, so you don'i need to waste the rest of your summer on the bummer. You didn't reply about the screw? :1948:

I have been tapping it on a strip of pine, hard enough to cause divots in the wood, there is a small amount of play on the end the pin comes out to hit the round. The hammer side is still stuck firm. Yes, don't worry I checked that the screw was out before doing all this :icon_tongue:

I think I'm just going to go the route of getting a new block. I have 20rds of 45-70 BP burning a hole in my pocket, and I have never shot a trapdoor yet....enough reading and worrying about this, its time to go shoot!

Wrap it in plastic and put in the freezer for a day. Then try again. You can also try the oven too. Your trying to temperature shock the corrosion.

I agree with Mr. Hosmer, the firing-pin is likely broken.

Years of 'dry-firing' a broken firing-pin will cause the rear section to 'mushroom' near the fracture or where the hammer strikes it (see photo), eventually 'locking it' immobile in the rear of the block.

Soaking and heat may help.

I had this happen with a model 1873 Springfield 'trap-door', that I bought to restore.

Nothing was working until I clamped the Block in a vise, protected by hardwood blocks.
I inserted a small steel punch/drift into the firing-pin hole at the block face.
With the punch in contact with the firing-pin tip, three or four sharp raps on the punch, with a steel ball-peen hammer, knocked the rear section of the pin out of the block. The front section could then simply be pushed out.

With a replacement Block on the way, you have nothing to lose by trying this.

If you do this, be aware of the compound angles involved and be sure that you are tapping in direct line with the axis of the pin.