What is the current going price on an import M1917 with mixed parts? Just looking to know how much a decent shooter would be. TIA...
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What is the current going price on an import M1917 with mixed parts? Just looking to know how much a decent shooter would be. TIA...
Sold six last year. One with shot out bore brought $350. Rest went from$500 to $700.0. Nice Winnie brought the most.
Bore condition is more important unless the import marks are unsightly. Prices can be strange on Gunbroker.
When I sell a 1903 or a 1917, I have the gauge to tell what the ME and TE are.
Too many were fired with blanks and ate out the throat.
Look good, Muzzle looks good, throat eroded beyond Mombassa.
I've been seeing asking prices at gun shows for M1917s in the $600 to $900 range around here. You can improve your odds of buying a good shooter by testing headspace, ME, TE and checking bore condition but you usually have to buy the rifle before you can shoot it.
While I am only casually shopping mine, they all shoot decent, have good TE and MW and are in overall good condition.Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc
Some cleaner than others, stocks vary as well.
All are parts mixed.
Eddystone is up for $900. I may not get it but its solid and a very clean good bore.
Others in the $1499 range with clean receiver and barrel, good bores and non issued stocks.
You can get a bargain once in a while, but for the most part the low cost good conditions ones are gone.
I'd probably ask similar money for my low serial numbered excellent shooting W if I ever lost my mind and decided to sell it. Lots of reasonably priced NOS parts are available on the Internet if a buyer decides to replace the worn or poor fitting mixmaster parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by RC20
I kept my Eddystone that shoots lights out. One of the kids will get it when I take a dirt nap. Same with the Eddystone P14.
So, your E P14 is as accurate shooting the .303 as your E M1917 is shooting the slightly hotter 30-06? I'd have to say my Enfield No. 4 Mk 1* shoots the .303 every bit as accurately as my W M1917 shoots the 30-06.Quote:
Originally Posted by p246
HI. I'm Starting to organize the sale of my 50 year '03 collection, selling off the ancillary pieces first. I have a near mint (I don't use the term lightly) 1917 Remington, bore perfect, muzzle of one (don't have a gauge to measure throat), wood near perfect except for a professionally carved "troop C" just forward of heel, all matching and all inspection marks pristine; about 95% or better bright blue remains. Nicest one I've ever seen absent the carving. Value? Thanks DokcopQuote:
Originally Posted by RC20
The most expensive minty parts-correct M1917 I’ve seen was at the Ohio Civil War Show in Mansfield, OH and had an asking price of $1575. It’s possible to turn a negative into a positive if you could research and identify the origin of Troop C. There are ways to measure throat erosion without a TE gauge and No-Go and Field headspace gauges are inexpensive. Knowing the amount of wear could enable you to ask more $.
Sorry missed this post initially. The Eddystone P14 and M1917 I kept both shoot very well. The exterior of the P14 shows a lot more wear than the M1917, but the bore was just as pristine. The P14 shoots SMK 174 grain boatails very well. It likes a max Load of 4895, actually 1/10th over SAMMI shoots the best. The M1917 will shoot the flat based 150s well, but also likes the 168 SMK. I’m using Varget in it. I had several M1917s and two P14s at one time but sold off all but the best shooters to help finance other projects. My better No. 4s shoot well but don’t like as hot a load as the P14. Different actions different loads.Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc
DocKop: Phew, PM me, would like to see some pictures.
First guess is $1200.
The head space is irrelevant. If the throat is good, head space will be fine. Headpace was not an aspect for those rifles, they were not built to SAMI. They tend to run almost field reject, but that is normal as per plenty of space in a military chamber.
If you don't reload I can help you out with the TE with a low cost solution.
ps: if you do head space the striker needs to be out of the bolt, otherwise it will crush the gauge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC20
Thanks for sharing your knowledge on headspace. Does the M1917 rule also apply to the M1903 since it came from the same era? What about the WW2 bolt action rifles ie, the 03-A3 and the Enfield No. 4 Mk 1?
The LE is a different animal all together. The others are variations of The Mauser action.Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc
enfields are rimmed, so a different style of headspace gauge applies,
the 1903 and A3, as well as the 1917 headspace using the same gauge, but again, not really as meaningful as the throat measurement (headspace is cartridge length to a datum point, throat measures the barrel erosion,,,)
and no, if you are using USGI 30.06 gauges, you do not have to remove the firing pin, the gauges are relieved for them,
The difference in the 1903/A3 and the 1917 is the 1917 is a cock on close. It has a very powerful cam action in the close part (vs the extraction). I think Hatcher wrote that up.
Ergo, yes you do want to remove the striker, its not interference, you can't feel the tightness of the gauge with it in, if you close it you can strain things and damage the gauge.
As noted, 303 SMLE is a different critter, head space was set with 4 different bolt-heads if I am remembering that right (just familair not a lot on those)Quote:
the 1903 and A3, as well as the 1917 head-space using the same gauge, but again, not really as meaningful as the throat measurement (head-space is cartridge length to a datum point, throat measures the barrel erosion,,,)
1903/1917/1903A3 and head space in general is a bit different. The Military had their own head space gauges as SAMI did not exist. I assume they just took the spec from the military, keeping in mind military chambers can and do what they want (5.56 vs 223, shoot 223 in 5.56 but not reverse) - the muck of combat means they don't want tight.
So, the gauges we mostly have access to are No Go, Go (Field gauges a bit less common and have to buy those separately normally, the Go /No Go oven come as a set.
A NO go is ok, its just pretty tight, some ammo may not fit if its not sub spec a tad. Reality is it just means you can set to No Go, but anything less will require a serious squish down of the brass if you reload and not fired in that gun.
Go is just that, kind of optimal but anything between a No Go and a Go is fine as well (tad iffy but almost certainly ok) Go is going to be for sure 100% ok with any ammo.
Then there is Field Reject. Having worked with Savages and barrels on and off, I have found its not the critical issue it made out to be (not to be casual either)
What it does mean is brass won't last long (unless you size it to the chamber). On a 1917 if you reload, you will want to segregate the brass because you will have to set it back a fair amount (and that cracks the base after 2-8 rounds). The 303 Mil Surplus guns will often be good for only two loading as the chamber is generous (I think large as well as long)
What Field Reject (often just Field) is to the military is we need to set that barrel back a bit more.
I have had a couple of cases where I got it too long and it simply would not fire the round.
Other cases the extractor will hold the round tight enough to fire it.
A really bad out past field reject someplace will rupture a case.
For 30-06
Go : ............. 2.049
No Go: ............ 2.055
Field Reject:...... 2.058
You can create a Field Reject form a Not go by putting a piece of masking tape on the back.
The 1917 tends to almost Field Reject
The 1903/A3 tends more to No Go.
Why I have not a clue, you would think both would match pretty close with accepted mfg variation of the day.
USGI 30.06 are
1.940 go
1.946 no go
1.950, field
from what I have read, just a different datum point measurement,
I have a set of each (USGI and Saami, ) and the measure the same when I use them on the same gun
I can see that, really make no difference on the shoulder where you do it, its consistent.
Interesting to see done differently, civie gauges would be to SAMI of course.