Just got RA 03A3, barrel dated 3/43.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Johnny P

. . . . . .You might try starting at 20 inch pounds and working up to no more than 40 for the wood stock. You might find that a combination like 30 in rear and 20 for front works.

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Been my experience just the opposite . . . .
Tighten the FRONT screw as tight as I can . . . Using ONLY a large, correctly fitted screwdriver BY MY HAND ONLY! (no extra wrenches or any other tools applied to the driver shank.)
Tighten the rear with much less force, but enough to get me through a match or session at the range.

With Mausers with the thumb cut in the left wall, one can bend the receiver with too much pressure on the rear screw, so perfect bedding against the stock is imperative!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Johnny P

Rest your chin on the screwdriver and turn the guard screw until it squeeks?

jj did ask about torque specs.

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I know he asked, but I never saw a spec sheet giving one,

Dad worked on 1903's for the .gov in the 60's and 70's,
by then they were basically only in the Military Academy's and a few High Schools had a locker full of them (and Garands, and 22's) ,

I have never seen anyone in the .gov, from user, to armorer to next step above that, ever use a torque wrench,


don't recall Brophy mentioning one either,


would be curious to know if there was one out there, (torque spec)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lyman

I know he asked, but I never saw a spec sheet giving one,

Dad worked on 1903's for the .gov in the 60's and 70's,
by then they were basically only in the Military Academy's and a few High Schools had a locker full of them (and Garands, and 22's) ,

I have never seen anyone in the .gov, from user, to armorer to next step above that, ever use a torque wrench,


don't recall Brophy mentioning one either,


would be curious to know if there was one out there, (torque spec)

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The military was only interested in keepng the rifle firing, not seeking how accurate they could make it. Read up on the National Match rifles.

Just a heads up!

Loaded 20 rounds of LC69 cases and 39 gr W748over a CCI200 primer and long-loaded a 150gr FMJ-BT bullet, [against the leade].

This was suggested by the Sierra Techs for a round that lap / burnish the bore,
will shoot at 100 yards to get an idea of the change in grouping from the beginning to end.

Then hit the still warm bore with some patches soaked with old "shooter's choice", bore cleaner.

With post photos. Just need to get the weather to get better.

Years ago, one of the gun mags had an article on barrel torque. Can't remember who did the work, but it was probably PO Ackley. The best accuracy was achieved with a barrel torque of 70 ft-lbs. The receiver screws were also torqued, but I don't recall the value. I started torquing all my barrels to 70 ft-lbs. I never had a problem with accuracy with any rifle so torqued. You will need an open-end wrench that fits the receiver across the flat and bridge, and an old socket that fits your torque wrench. Cut both and weld them together to make a compact unit that fits the torque wrench and the receiver. Put the barrel in a barrel vise, oil the threads on both barrel and receiver, screw the receiver on hand tight, and torque to 70 ft-lbs. I do remember that test accuracy decreased with additional torque.

Does it work? Darned if I know, but I have no complaints.

When did the RA 2-groove barrel were accepted.

Have some RA barrels in auctions, so I need to know the barrel date to reference.
Thanks.

Finally, getting to range for barrel shooting.