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IIRC military blanks are a small charge of fast burning smokeless propellant.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny P
I do recall owning some starter pistol blanks which were black powder based. The smoke being a virtue in that case because it gives a visual indication. And yes 100% true about cleaning.
Perfect for a "starter shotgun" LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Johnny P
google best foaming bore cleaner, and buy one,
put the muzzle in a small can, like a tuna can or a catfood can
load the bore up with foam
let set a couple days,
repeat
just using a regular brush, nylon, or brass, or bronze, give it 10 or 20 strokes, and load up a few patches with hoppes or similar,
Diesel or kero work too,
once you feel it is clean, take a peak, and if needed repeat,
I bought a handful of 1917's from an estate, all but one came clean after about 2 weeks of soaking
I bought 4 of the top 5 foaming bore cleaners, and they all worked well,
skip Birchwood Casey, it is like snot going in , and snot coming out,
or you can plug one end, fill it with kero, or kroil, and let it set a good bit and flush and scrub
all were CMP sales, and ex VFW guns,
Did the same from a 17 Enfield , ended up with a good shooter for the early "vintage matches" from the DCM.
Current bore photos:
I will re-assemble and head to range to and fire 10 - 20 reloads and hit the bore with fresh Hoppe's and see what develops.
If the bore clean up and give decent group, then will consider some "Tubbs" fire-lapping bullets.
End result may need to find a WWII barrel still in the wrapper.
There's several on ebay and couple on GB but mostly 2 grove. Haven't looked at Gun Parts Corp or Sarco. However, yours is cleaning up nicely compared to earlier photo's. Hopefully it will group well enough for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrothWA
Re-assembled the rifle to the original stock.
Took the Forster headspace gauges; "GO" closed and the "No Go" stopped as the bolt handle root rotated even with the top surface of the bottom receiver edge.
Would anyone have the torque specs for tightening the receiver screws?
Thanks.
Speaking of torque specs. Several years back a "Wanna Be" law officer from a small town brought in one of the Remington PSS rifles to the local gunsmith with a broken guard screw, and the other screw buggered all to hell. He couldn't get the action torqued to specs, ending up as described. Seems he was using a mechanics torque wrench set to 60 ft. lbs. rather than 60 inch pounds.
You might try starting at 20 inch pounds and working up to no more than 40 for the wood stock. You might find that a combination like 30 in rear and 20 for front works.
torque specs were simple,
tight, then a bit of a umpf,
you can play around with a torque wrench to see which may give you better accuracy or to be consistent, but I don't think any of the original armorers had a torque wrench,
Rest your chin on the screwdriver and turn the guard screw until it squeeks?
jj did ask about torque specs.