Savage no4 mk1* range report

[Johan412th]

Spent some quality time with my new savage no4 mk1* yesterday... Walked my rounds down onto the target at about 125 yards. Rifle performed accurately, reliably and consistently. Fairly good accuracy for a 70+ year old battle rifle. My only issue was it was fighting me when I tried to extract fired casings... Any idea why?31082

[Johan412th]

31083

[Parashooter]

. . . it was fighting me when I tried to extract fired casings... Any idea why?
Hard primary extraction (bolt lift) -

High pressure loads
Soft/dirty cases
Dirty/pitted/deformed chamber
Unlubed bolt head threads
Unlubed extraction cam (left lug/recess)

Hard secondary extraction (bolt withdrawal) -

Rough/unlubed left boltway
Jammed/abnormal extractor spring

31085

[tmark]

Well stated, parashooter. I'd like to know what kind of ammo op used. I suspect a combination of factors contributed to hard extraction. I wonder if original chamber is undersized (below minimum specs)?

[Johan412th]

HXP Greek surplus ball ammo. Works fine in my 1916 BSA no1 mk3.

[JB White]

HXP Greek surplus ball ammo. Works fine in my 1916 BSA no1 mk3.

Start with the easiest and something that should be done with some regularity anyway. Buy a good chamber brush. Initially plug the bore and stand the rifle on end while it's filled and soaking 24 hours in Hoppes No9 bore solvent. Then scrub that chamber!
Tip: Leave the cleaning rod in the barrel...you'll only use half as much solvent ;)

[Johan412th]

Thanks JB, worth a shot. Also, if it calls for it, I have a brand new no1 mk3 barrel still in cosmoline... Are they compatible with no4 actions?

[JB White]

Thanks JB, worth a shot. Also, if it calls for it, I have a brand new no1 mk3 barrel still in cosmoline... Are they compatible with no4 actions?

In a nutshell...NO. It can be made to thread to the action with a bit of thread chasing but it will clock 180 degrees off...meaning your sights will be inside the barrel channel and the extractor cut will be on the wrong side of the boltface.

Besides, the intermixing of No4 to No1 goes the other way. No4 barrel to a No1 action for a range rifle. The no4 barrel being heavier and better suited for free floating. Even that takes some machine work and gunsmithing to get done along with the fitting up of the wood.

Save your new barrel to bring back a rotted out SMLE...or pick up a Martini Henry action to turn into a Martini-Enfield shooter. That too will take some work though! $$$
Be advised that not every gunsmith is set up to do LE barrel swaps. Without the proper tools and gauges a rebarrel can become a mess.

[SMOKEY]

412, I have had good luck using PPU ammo in my No.4 and No.5. Relatively inexpensive and shoots good. Love the bolt on the No.4. Give it a try

[Johan412th]

JB, thanks again. Keeps me from doing something stupid with my rifle. Smokey, picked some ppu a few weeks ago, so it's going down range very soon, thanks for the tip.

[Johan412th]

Update: polished the chamber, with some help from a friend, and she shoots just like a battle rifle should!

[tmark]

Thanks for telling us how it all worked out.

[Sunray]

"...fighting me when I tried to extract fired casings..." Headspace is bad.
A rough/unlubed(No.4's function just fine with no lube at all. That's why our Canadian Rangers like 'em.) left bolt way or a jammed/abnormal extractor spring would not be the first thing to look at. Thousands of No. 4's have been assembled out of parts bins with zero QC.

[Parashooter]

Please explain how "bad" headspace affects extraction effort.

Perhaps you will also let us know what factors you feel influence secondary extraction more than friction between case rim and left boltway.