Springfield 1873 questions

[invaliduser]

Just bought it a couple days ago as a sometimes shooter and probably wall gun. What have I gotten myself into here? How does it look? Parts correct? I think it's in pretty good condition.
I posted this on another forum and only got one response and they suggested I post here.

I've tried to research it briefly but couldn't find any info on it not half cocking. Probably not using the correct search terms.
It goes to 'safe' or first click, then it goes to fire as the second click. It does not seem to want to half cock. When I cock the hammer it doesn't seem to have anything wrong with it other than it misses that half cock spot like it doesn't exist.

I believe the serial is 219693 which makes it an 1883 production. It looks like the last number has been nicked or worn somehow by the door itself or somebody dropping the hammer on it a few times with the breech open. This seems to go with the 1883 cartouche

Does the wood look refinished? It's pretty good and the stampings and cartouche still look good. Rust and pitting is almost non existent and the bore still has some shine and is not pitted. Rifling is still strong. I'll call it 85-90% overall bore condition

Is there any way I can tell if the sling is original or just an old repro?

There is a stamp at the top of the stock near the butt plate but i can't seem to identify what it says. I know the second word looks to be RIFLE
I can get a better pictures if needed, took these with my phone


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[invaliduser]

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[p246]

One of the experts will be along. Nice find, I have one made in 1889. We were shooting it today. Joy to shoot pain to clean.

[Dick Hosmer]

I'd say your assessments are all pretty valid. The wood does look refinished, but, from what I can see, the sling is original. The rear sight has been changed to the M1884 Buffington model, but that was almost routine. All other parts appear to be period correct.

You certainly should have a 3-notch tumbler, but you will have to pull the lock to see exactly what is wrong. Cock the hammer - this assures that the mainspring does not drag across the bottom of the lock cutout. Unscrew the lock screws a couple of turns - no more! Tap gently on the heads, but watch as the lockplate comes out that you are not starting a chip. Work it out gradually - do not just take the screws completely out and jerk it by the hammer! If you are lucky it will come out clean. You will need some sort of clamp, vise, locking pliers, etc. to capture the compressed mainspring so that it can be wiggled off, allowing all other parts to be disassembled. Do not pry the hammer off the plate! Remove the hammer screw, set the disassembled lock on some wooden blocks and, using a punch, or the partially reinstalled screw, drive the tumbler down out of the hammer. Replace any bad parts and reassemble.

If the gun has a very light trigger pull (2-3 lbs. as opposed to the normal 6-8) someone may have weakened the sear spring and ground off the half-cock notch.

Let us know what you find, or if you need further help. See list of parts suppliers on main page.

[invaliduser]

What part of the sling can I get a better picture of? It seems to be cracking up at the bends, can I treat it with something like a leather conditioner?

I don't feel comfortable taking it apart as I don't want to damage the wood stock. I don't feel competent enough for this hah. I can live with it not having the half cock though I may get tired of that and get around to it.
I don't have the means to measure trigger weight but it feels pretty heavy. It's definitely not snappy light like my 1911

[13Echo]

Oh good. You found your way here. Good information and advice from Mr. Hosmer.

For a nice overview of all the models of the Trapdoor rifles from the 1865 to the 1888 and positive cam rifles try the Trapdoor Collector's site:

http://www.trapdoorcollector.com/

Lots of good information including detailed instructions on disassemble, a for sale section with lots of parts, and lots of pictures.

Your rifle looks like a very nice example and should be a good shooting rifle.

Jerry Liles

[Dick Hosmer]

I use Pecards on my leather goods. It will not fix cracks, but may allow the sling to flex a bit better. You would be wise to either remove the sling and get a repro, especially if you are going to be handling it, or using it for position shooting, or go without. One of the reasons it cracked is because it is on there WAY tighter than it should be for long-term storage. If your trigger pull is still heavy, there is no way to tell what has failed, or been modified. If you are going to shoot it, it is imperative that the hammer does properly engage at full cock. So long as the safety notch is functional one does not really need half cock, but be careful how you handle - and where you point - the rifle, because you will be loading it, and taking up position to fire at full cock - something that was never planned for by the designers. The hammer was never intended to be lowered to the safety notch from full cock!

[older than dirt]

One of the experts will be along. Nice find, I have one made in 1889. We were shooting it today. Joy to shoot pain to clean.
Pain to clean??? Just use smokeless, presto no cleaning problem what so ever.

[13Echo]

Properly done a cleaning a black powder cartridge rifle is easy. Use patches wet with water or windex with vinegar to remove the fouling, a bit of brushing may be necessary for hard fouling, followed by dry patches to remove the water and then the bore oil of choice. If you have a pitted barrel use a water displacing product like WD40 after the wet and dry patches then oil. Wipe down the muzzle and forestock with damp rag to remove fouling then dry and oil the metal.

On my Trapdoors I like to hold the block open with a large rubber band and put the rifle in the cradle upside down so fouling doesn't fall into the receiver when cleaning from the muzzle. There are flexible plastic rods available that will allow cleaning from the breech.

Jerry Liles

[DRAGONFLYDF]

Pain to clean??? Just use smokeless, presto no cleaning problem what so ever.

It was designed for black powder, why not use that and avoid the chance of blowing it up from accidental over charge. Mine are very happy on a diet of triple 7 and hand cast lead.

[older than dirt]

It was designed for black powder, why not use that and avoid the chance of blowing it up from accidental over charge. Mine are very happy on a diet of triple 7 and hand cast lead.

I like when people say it was designed for black powder. It makes it sound like smokeless powder was on the market back then. Black powder was all there was, so that`s what they used. I have over a 1000 rounds down the tube of my 1873 TD & it`s as accurate today as it was the 1st time I shot it, & it`s always been smokeless & if you pay attention you won`t double charge.

[Michaelp]

If you are going to handle it much, get a repop sling.

Well meaning good friend broke mine fooling with it.
That old leather is just for lookin' at.