PDA

View Full Version : Disassembly problem - Ruger Mark II



FCPDAVE
08-18-2014, 09:41
Hi - In return for fixing my laptop, I told my neighbor I'd clean his Ruger Mark 2 Target pistol.
He only told me that he couldn't figure it out. I see hammer marks on the large pin that sticks up behind the sights. The bolt will only come back halfway. I tried the device on the rear of the pistol grip but it only comes out a short distance. I called him and he said something about the firing pin falling. Any help? Thanks, Dave

da gimp
08-18-2014, 02:18
On the Gun Talk Board here on Jousters........ about 6 or so posts from the top, there is a thread "On Line manuals for most firearms" posted by Doug. It takes you to a site that lists huge number of original factory manuals.... your Ruger Mark II manual is there & in it, it tells you how to disassemble & reassemble it........... I found the print size to be large enough for me, but I wear bifocals... good luck too you sir.

joem
08-19-2014, 04:39
That pistol has to be one of the most troublesome pistols to reassemble, comes apart easily. I've done it many times and it's still difficult at best and takes two or more times to get everything lined up. As far as hammer marks on the pin he tried brute force and that will not work. Hope he didn't break or bend anything.

Sunray
08-20-2014, 09:46
The Ruger Mark 2 Target isn't designed to be taken apart. The barrel/receiver, for example. is on there with a press fit. Mind you, it's usually not getting it apart that give grief. It's getting it back together. That requires fiddling until the parts go in.

Vern Humphrey
08-20-2014, 11:34
Make a hook from a paper clip, reach up inside the mechanism and you will find a loose, dangling part. Pull it back and hold the pistol pointed up as you close the takedown latch.

Johnny P
08-20-2014, 01:14
The only thing I have ever had go wrong with one was the part of the recoil spring assembly that straddles the bolt stop pin spreading out of breaking, but that takes a lot of firing. I just go ahead and get out the instructions before I start, as it is one pistol that you will very seldom luck back together.

PhillipM
08-20-2014, 01:58
Here's a video, sounds like he has the hammer strut in the wrong place for sure.

CZ_wTmiko0g

Oyaji
08-20-2014, 02:49
Those Ruger .22 pistols are a pain in the a$$. Oh sure, the Ruger lovers will always tell you how easy they are to reassemble after doing it a time or two. I've owned three of them over the years and was never happy with them. Then I got smart and bought a Smith Model 41.

PhillipM
08-20-2014, 09:53
Those Ruger .22 pistols are a pain in the a$$. Oh sure, the Ruger lovers will always tell you how easy they are to reassemble after doing it a time or two. I've owned three of them over the years and was never happy with them. Then I got smart and bought a Smith Model 41.

What did you dislike about the Ruger other than dissassembly? I own a 1967 vintage Model 41 myself, so I've never had a reason to buy a Ruger so other than plinking with some friends I've not shot them much.

joem
08-21-2014, 05:09
I have two. One is fron 1976 and the other I bought at auction. The auction buy was so dirty It wouldn't come apart but would still fire. I wound up removing the grips and sticking it in a bucket of diesel for two days.

Jim in Salt Lake
08-21-2014, 08:25
I have a Mark 1, vintage 1976. They are the easiest to take apart and reassemble. My son has a Mark III, it and the Mark II have features that the Mark I doesn't. Such as a 10 round magazine vs. 9, and a bolt release/holdback mechanism. The only way to hold a Mark I bolt open is to engage the safety while you hold the bolt open. I can take my Mark I apart and back together 4 times before my son can do same to his Mark III once. You have to follow the manual exactly, hold the muzzle up, remove/insert the magazine, etc., when they tell you. There's a company that makes a kit that simplifies the process: http://www.majesticarms.com/id10.html My son bought one for his Mark III, works very well. I didn't for my Mark I since I didn't have a problem.

FCPDAVE
08-22-2014, 06:43
Thanks for the advice. I got the back strap latch open all the way, and got it to cock. I haven't located a plastic punch around here to drive the pin out, but I sent to Brownell's for their Ruger takedown "kit" which they say can be used as a non-marring punch. What an aggravation. I have a Ruger Super Single Six 22lr/22mag. that I like even better now. And the little PP 22lr, while certainly not a target pistol, is a breeze to strip also.

Oyaji
08-22-2014, 06:57
Thanks for the advice. I got the back strap latch open all the way, and got it to cock. I haven't located a plastic punch around here to drive the pin out, but I sent to Brownell's for their Ruger takedown "kit" which they say can be used as a non-marring punch. What an aggravation. I have a Ruger Super Single Six 22lr/22mag. that I like even better now. And the little PP 22lr, while certainly not a target pistol, is a breeze to strip also.

The Walther PP in .22 LR is a sweetheart of mine. It is also a breeze to field strip and reassemble.

CHW2021
08-24-2014, 07:39
OK, so it is not the easiest to take down and reassemble; when is that a major fault with a simple, reliable and accurate pistol?
If disassembly is too much trouble just soak the entire gun or spray it with carb cleaner and relube.

GA-Dave
09-04-2014, 06:12
I had the same problem. I couldn't draw the bolt back after assembling it incorrectly. A quick search of the inter-web found a solution that worked for me. Rap the rear of the with a ruber or plastic mallet to move the hammer forward. Then disassemble and reassemble properly with the muzzle pointing up.

lyman
09-08-2014, 05:11
never understood the difficulty with them myself,
I have an AMT lightning, about 84 vintage, that I have had since new,
took about 5-6 times to figure it out, (not counting the time I felt like throwing it across the room!!!)

just picked up an early 50's standard mk I (I think that is the right nomenclature) that was fairly easy to take apart, clean and put back,

patience, and a basic understanding of where the parts need to be, is all that is needed