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remus
05-03-2014, 09:34
I've got this smle #3 and was shooting it a short time age and notices a split in the stock right on the bottom starting in front of the mag well and about 4 inches long. Hairline crack.

I do not want to put a new stock on it, I'd like to keep it original.

My question is: Is there a decent way to repair this stock and keep the rifle shooting in it's original condition. I've heard of the Brownells threaded rod repair but am not sure about it. Are there other ways to repair this stock.

Thanks in advance.

Alan De Enfield
05-03-2014, 10:36
Are you sure its a #3 and not a #1 ?
Lithgow did not make the #3.

Assuming its a No1 Mk3 and Coachwood, are the recoil plates in place in the draws ?
Is the Front Trigger Guard Screw very, very tight ?
Is the FTG bush in place ?

If the recoil plates or the bush are missing then you are on a hiding to nothing and the split will worsen.

Can you provide more information and pictures.

kcw
05-03-2014, 11:29
The treaded rod you refer to is merely "all-thread" rod with a thread suitable for use in wood. The U.S. government used 3/32" brass all-thread and also a smaller diameter, maybe 1/16" too. The idea is simple enough, drill a hole of appropriate size to properly accept the all-thread size you wish to use, clamp the crack together and then run the rod into the drilled hole. In a case such as yours you'll drill clear through the stock and then run the all-thread in one side and out the other. Trim the rod off with a hacksaw about 1/16" from the wood and then file rod flush with stock. If you can't find suitable all-thread, you can make use of the shanks of straight screws found at the hardware store. If you can't find suitable brass screws, steel will work as well.
I have a 1940 Lithgow with the same crack, it runs clear up past the rear right protector screw. In my case, I drilled holes for two screws clear through (side to side) the forestock between the trigger guard and rear sight protector screw. the first was about 1/3 the way forward from the trigger guard, and the second about 2/3rds the way forward toward the sight protector screw. If I recall correctly, I made certain that I drilled through areas of the stock which were solid from side to side (not through a cavity machined into the forestock). I also cheated a bit from the GI repair and also stuffed some Brownells Gel Kit bedding material into the crack. I used steel screws with about 2" shanks. I ran the head of the crew to within about 1/8" of the wood and hacksawed off. Then filed both ends of the shank flush with the wood.
NOTE: If the forestock is cracked then you almost certainly will find that the TINY factory installed brass reinforcement screw, common on many #1 forestocks, at the butt end of the forestock, just ahead of the socket (Or above the trigger) , will be cracked too.

JB White
05-03-2014, 03:28
It's not cheating to inject adhesive into a crack and clamp. That's the proper way repair a split in wood. If done properly, and the grain aligns, the repair should be stronger than the wood.

There are plenty reasons for the crack as already mentioned. Coachwood was prone to cracking in that manner and is why the Aussies took preventive measures against it. The reinforcing pins in the cheek, the recoil pads at the draws (which some missed being retrofitted) proper bedding to said draws, and correct tightness of the 'king' screw.

Post photos of the damage so we know exactly what we're dealing with?

remus
05-10-2014, 09:59
Well, the back end of the stock is cracked also. The pieces with the brass square thingees screwed into them are busted. The screw anchor hole in front of the magazine has got the back broken out and is gone. Evidently the crack in front of the magazine well and forward is the least of the troubles on this stock.

Can it be fixed? The wood is treated by a chemical I suppose to preserve it. If it can be glued, what kind of glue should be used? I think the way I do things, piecemeal and slow, if a repair can be made, it is going to take a while.

If all else fails are stocks for #1 mark III rifles available anywhere?

Alan De Enfield
05-10-2014, 11:28
Well, the back end of the stock is cracked also. The pieces with the brass square thingees screwed into them are busted. The screw anchor hole in front of the magazine has got the back broken out and is gone. Evidently the crack in front of the magazine well and forward is the least of the troubles on this stock.

Can it be fixed? The wood is treated by a chemical I suppose to preserve it. If it can be glued, what kind of glue should be used? I think the way I do things, piecemeal and slow, if a repair can be made, it is going to take a while.

If all else fails are stocks for #1 mark III rifles available anywhere?


Did you remove the Butt (Butt bolt) before removing the forend, or did you remove the forend before removing the Butt ?
Removing the Butt first causes much of the damage you are seeing.

It can be repaired but could turn out to be 'false economy' - if the wood is soaked in oil it could be that it will be extremely difficult to get any glue to work.

Second hand forends can be found in various places (ebay as good as any) but be aware that every enfield is different and the forend is unlkely to 'drop-in' it will need FITTING (woodworking skills needed)

You will also need to check that there is absolutely no warping, and that the draws etc have not been damaged, & that all the bearing points are correct.
There is a lot of work in re-stocking an Enfield

As an example I took the forend off one rifle, installed it on another rifle and that rifle would not 'cock' the woodwork was interfering with the bolt / cocking mechanism - yet it fitted perfectly on the original rifle

kcw
05-10-2014, 12:05
Well, the back end of the stock is cracked also. The pieces with the brass square thingees screwed into them are busted. The screw anchor hole in front of the magazine has got the back broken out and is gone. Evidently the crack in front of the magazine well and forward is the least of the troubles on this stock.

Can it be fixed? The wood is treated by a chemical I suppose to preserve it. If it can be glued, what kind of glue should be used? I think the way I do things, piecemeal and slow, if a repair can be made, it is going to take a while.

If all else fails are stocks for #1 mark III rifles available anywhere?

IF the rear end of the fore stock IS NOT oil soaked you may be able to use a two part epoxy, such as the Brownell's Gel Kit I previously mentioned, to rebuild the torn away material. It could take several applications to acquire the required buildup of material. However once the material has cured, it can be fashioned (via filing, sanding, drilling, cutting, etc.) to recreate the original shape of the stock in that area. Of course the stock will also still have to be 1st pinned/glued to close the big crack so as to bring the stock into proper "side to side" spec. Next to duct tape, I've found the Brownell's Gel Kit one of the most useful tools for miscellaneous home repairs where things need to be stuck together.

JB White
05-10-2014, 05:13
It sure sounds as though the buttstock screw was turned with the forend attached...doesn't it?
There is a part of what was said begs the questions: Is the king screw bushing present? Is the triggerguard bedding compressed? Are the draws intact? If the butt was removed first then there is a strong possibility the forend was tilted down off the rifle, thus creating other damage. If the forend fell free then the other damage is already done.

I won't volunteer how-to info in a case like this without photos first. Everything in my mind's eye is pure speculation and don't know where to start in reality. What if something needs to be removed prior to mixing??

Alan De Enfield
05-11-2014, 12:06
There is a part of what was said begs the questions: Is the king screw bushing present?
Is the triggerguard bedding compressed? Are the draws intact? where to start in reality. What if something needs to be removed prior to mixing??

From the OP's statement :

The pieces with the brass square thingees screwed into them are busted. The screw anchor hole in front of the magazine has got the back broken out and is gone

I'd suggest its "too far gone"

JB White
05-11-2014, 01:46
From the OP's statement :

The pieces with the brass square thingees screwed into them are busted. The screw anchor hole in front of the magazine has got the back broken out and is gone

I'd suggest its "too far gone"

I think it's trashed....but we don't know that until we see it. Wth some judicious woodworking and blind fiberglass or epoxy work (as KCW suggests) it might be made serviceable while still maintaining a decent outward appearance.

Metal bits can be removed, replaced, or the forend might be put back via 1930's RFI style using modern products. Naturally going that route the tip of the buttstock bolt will need to be ground off as not to make any contact at all. Without knowlege of fitting a replacement, the glass bedding would be an option. Given the damage done it will never be original.

Let's face it. Without having at least a look for ourselves it's like trying to train a dog over the internet. :)

remus
05-13-2014, 10:18
I think that this rifle as far as I am concerned will be a wall hanger and will be sold for what I have in at first opportunity and another purchased as a shooter. I may even shoot it once in a while, don't think I can damage it any more than it already is. It seems to shoot fairly well in spite of its less that stellar condition. I don't think I'll worry on this one any more.