PDA

View Full Version : Walkers and wedges.



Nate
12-11-2013, 02:55
Having owned several Colt percussion revolvers in the past and having happily banged the wedges in and out, a friend just dropped by with an older Walker '70s repro. The wedge on this revolver was fitted so finely that just depressing the spring catch at the end of the wedge allowed it to be pushed out with only thumb pressure. He offered,"how else could a rider on horseback be able to swap out cylinders?". I don't know if riders did that or not but the violence I have used in the past was clearly not necessary. It was easy to refit the wedge on my '80s Walker the same way with the complication of shortening and bending the spring. It has been said that manufacturers simply have standardized wedges along all production models so maybe that is an explanation for the weird fit on so many. Another bit of folklore he offered was that the heavy mainspring of his revolver was to ensure that the hammer would hold the cap firmly against the nipple to prevent blowback from causing a multiple discharge. It was great fun and maybe I learned a bit about these fine revolvers.

older than dirt
12-11-2013, 07:16
I have to agree somewhat on the nipple blow back theory. I have a A.S.M. Walker mid 70`s mfg. & it has one hell of a heavy hammer spring on it.

Hefights
03-20-2014, 08:02
I acquired a set of Colt Black Powder Signature Series 1851s back in the 90's. They are not the collector's favorites many see them as not real Colts. That idea great for me because I tuned them myself and shoot em. Very accurate and function real nice. The cylinder wedges work without using a hammer, very nicely fit.

Gatofeo
03-20-2014, 09:50
The hammer spring does play a role in preventing pressure from spurting back through the nipple channel.
Too many shooters forget that when gunpowder (old or modern) is ignited, the pressure it builds initially pushes in all directions. Firearms work on the principle of "seeking the path of least resistance."
Firearms are designed for bullets to be that path of least resistance. When the bullet IS NOT that path, mud in the barrel for example, the pressure seeks an alternate route.
With cap and ball revolvers, that path is back through the nipple channel.
When a cap and ball revolver is overloaded, such as using more Hodgdon 777 than recommended by the manufacturer, pressure may be high enough through the nipple channel that the hammer is brought back to half cock.
In the first half of the 20th century, there were numerous smokeless powders made to mimic the same bulk as black powder, for use in shotgun shells. This made reloading easier, since the same measure for shot is also used with black powder. Almost immediately, old black powder rifles and handguns were damaged or blown to pieces by the use of this bulk smokeless powder. Pressures were just too high.
In my collection of old American Rifleman magazines (1929 to present, an unbroken set) there are numerous warnings against using bulk smokeless shotgun powder in anything but shotgun shells.
And more than one photo is shown of the catastrophic results of straying from that warning.
I recall one note that a Colt cap and ball revolver was so heavily overloaded with this powder that the hammer was brought back to full cock, by the pressure spurting through the nipple channel.

Interestingly, the Browning Hi-Power 9mm pistol typically has a 32-pound spring for its hammer. This very heavy hammer pull is on purpose; the strong spring pressure retards the slide from coming back too fast and battering the frame. Basically, the same principle.

From what I've been able to determine, it's a myth that extra cylinders were carried. I've yet to see anyone cite an actual source for this: diary, combat report, newspaperman's observation, whatever. Nor has anyone discovered an old, contemporary holster with extra pockets for loaded cylinders. So, lacking any documentation, I don't believe it.

I've never liked a wedge that could be pushed out by fingers. It's just too loose. I suspect it leads to a battered or widened wedge slot in the arbor. I've found best accuracy with a fairly tight wedge. When the wedge is loose, my groups widen.

As Mark Twain observed, "A difference of opinion is what makes a horse race."

dave
03-21-2014, 05:56
I acquired a set of Colt Black Powder Signature Series 1851s back in the 90's. They are not the collector's favorites many see them as not real Colts. That idea great for me because I tuned them myself and shoot em. Very accurate and function real nice. The cylinder wedges work without using a hammer, very nicely fit.

They are not 'real Colts' having been made in Italy and only finished and marked by Colt in the US.

RCS
03-21-2014, 06:43
Having converted two incomplete Uberti revolvers (1861 and 1851) to use 38 S&W cartridges,
the first two things that I did was make a new wedge and change the mainspring to a Colt 1873 type. The new wedges were adjusted to .003 to .004 gap between barrel and cylinder.

Also needed to replace the hand and bolt and make the recoil plate and ejector housing. At the time, I had the cartridge cylinders too

Major Tom
03-21-2014, 07:32
RE: wedges
I have a Uberti 1860 Colt 44 cal. he wedge sticks out very far after adjusting the barrel to cylinder. It looks strange hanging out that far. Otherwise, revolver functions OK.
So, would that be normal?

Hefights
03-21-2014, 06:10
The wedge should pass through the slot so the spring retainer holds it in place. However fit of the wedge in practice tends to vary. It should not be sticking out too far as it could work itself out, but if the gun shoots and timing is good, oh well. You might try to fit another one if it is a problem.

Hefights
03-21-2014, 06:12
They are not 'real Colts' having been made in Italy and only finished and marked by Colt in the US.

Yeah well i just sold one a few weeks ago, they hold their value well enough and I made money. He's now making Henry rifles, and I am shooting the heck out the non Colt revolvers and loving it.