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Brad in Idaho
04-06-2013, 07:11
I have a friend who has an 1878 Trapdoor. He has mentioned selling it. I haven't seen it in a long while, but as I remember it is in VG condition with no problems. It is shootable, and he has shot it. I know this is not much of a description, but in general, if I were to make an offer, what would be fair? What should I look for to determine value? I would want to give him a fair price. This gentleman is 86 and I'm sure he could use the cash.

gtodan
04-06-2013, 07:18
Many of these rifles were refitted over the years. Hammers, sights were upgraded. Condition is everything. Bore? Metal finish? Is everything there? Whats the serial? Sideplate markings? Stock condition? Markings or cartouches? Pics speak a thousand words.

wayne
04-06-2013, 07:57
Al Frasca's site, Trapdoorcollector, lists a lot of trapdoors for sale and already sold. Check out the prices there. Usually pretty good pictures and descriptions so you should be able to get a good idea what the gun is worth.

Dick Hosmer
04-06-2013, 08:12
Many of these rifles were refitted over the years. Hammers, sights were upgraded. Condition is everything. Bore? Metal finish? Is everything there? Whats the serial? Sideplate markings? Stock condition? Markings or cartouches? Pics speak a thousand words.

IMHO, based on nearly 45 years of collecting, condition is certainly very important, but originality should not be overlooked. What one really should do is educate themselves as to what is correct and not pay top dollar for a mixmaster just because it looks pretty. In this case, would it be possible to post some pictures? The suggestion as regards Al Frasca's site is an excellent one - with care, Gunbroker will also give one an idea of what is selling and for what. FWIW, the arms which appear to be stamped 1878, are actually marked 1873.

JBinIll
04-06-2013, 08:36
Rifles with rough bores are selling in the $400+ range.Disregarding originality,for a rifle with a nice shootable bore probably $650-750+.

Brad in Idaho
04-06-2013, 09:55
John (the owner) lives 75 miles away. We don't get up his way often, but we're thinking of visiting soon. I'll see if he is still interested in selling, if so I'll get some pics and post back here. I just don't want to cheat either of us. I would err on the side of overpaying a little if anything. Thanks. Hopefully I can pursue this soon.

Mark Daiute
04-06-2013, 03:18
In my opinion, when you enter the 600.00 realm you should be/start looking at a shootable rifle that is basically as issued, that is to say with components that match the serial number. when you enter the 600 range you should expect a stock with the cartouche and the circled P or at least a good field-replacement stock with the inspector's initials behind the trigger guard.

gtodan
04-12-2013, 09:15
Some additional clarification on "originality". Many of these rifles saw lots of field use. They were rotated back thru the arsenal for upgrades and refurbs. Parts were not serial numbered. Barrels do have proof marks. They were early hammers and late hammers. They were early rear sights and late model sights. They changed the cleaning rod styles. You will find many with "mystery" numbers stamped on them. They could be initials, rack numbers, unit numbers, etc. Some of the serial numbers may be listed in "SRS Archives" with issue information. You will be one of the lucky ones if you get a "hit". Remember these rifles shot black powder loads. Bore and chamber condition is critical. Many of the very early trapdoors were actually converted Civil War era muzzle loaders.
Read, visit as many sights as you can and read some more, and visit more sites, you get the point....

Dick Hosmer
04-13-2013, 07:29
A word about parts - a late part on an early gun can simply represent good maintenance - however, an early part on a late gun almost always means trouble. Bottom line, 100+ years removed, there are going to be "issues" with many pieces, you just need to educate yourself as to what is reasonable and what isn't. Even guns with no obvious parts changes will have been re-browned, etc. The manuals contain instructions for how to do it, and supplies were issued. All blued blocks after 1878 got that way by refinishing.